[TowerTalk] Rotor

[Christopher Brown]

On 11/22/16 09:08, Russ Dearmore via TowerTalk wrote:
> I use Scotch 33 or 88 leaving a small tail about 2" long, folded back
> on itself leaving it 1" long, and then silicone but leaving the tail
> sticking out.  When removing it comes undone quickly.  Also liquid
> tape is nice although it's just that much more expense.  Russ K5ZZR
> My Heroes Wear Combat Boots!  Nothing can stop the man with the right
> mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help
> the man with the wrong mental attitude. 


I just put up a 450 this summer, so far as I can tell is is same
connector and boot.

I put the boot on when I made my cable, but then cut it off.


The boot is vinyl and at best a splash gaurd.  With high UV in AK I
could not see in lasting long, and the first 60mph wind and rain event
would have had it holding water.


I put just enough dielectric greas in the connector to flow out into the
threads, wiped the excess and wrapped with self-fusing silicone splicing
tape.  Then a overwrap under light tension of 3m 88, final extra full
turn under no tension.  Then a T&B/Panduit/similar high qual UV
protected metal tab zip tie under just enough tension to keep it in place.


Silicone seals, 88 is abrasion/UV protection, zip keeps the tail in place.

This is the same as I do with coax connections.


Best is the 3m self-fusing if you can get it (better stretch/conform
over stepped connections), but the "rescue tape" commonly found these
days is functionally the same stuff.

Cut tie, unwrap 88, score the silicone with a razor and peals right off.


I just re-did 2 barrels I sealed this way on a HF antenna run that had
been in place for 5 years, where the connections are in wet leaves or
for several weeks a year actually under water...  The only leak was
where a moose stepped on the cable in the middle, both barrels were
still dry and perfect.