[TowerTalk] Nylok nuts

[Charles Gallo]

<snip>
> I also thought that there was a rule on the auto side (way back when I
> worked on cars) that since a Nylock degrades each time it is removed that
> the max reuse was 3 times, but replacement is better. I use some Nylock's
> on
> my antennas here on the coast just off the ocean and they get a LOT of UV
> and salt, but have held up.
>
> Don W7WLL
<snip>

Don,
Something I learned LONG ago when I USED to work on my cars (I'll give
brakes as an example)
used to go to replace my drum brake pads on my 1969 Catalina (I did say it
was long ago) and the job was always a bear, full of frustration. 
Finances improved a bit, and I wouldn't just buy the pads (and if
necessary get the drums cut etc), I'd buy the whole "Rebuild kit" - came
with the springs (both the retaining and retracting), and the star wheel,
and all those other parts.  Cost about 1/4-1/2 the price of the pads.  SO
much nicer to work with new, clean, non rusty, non worn  hardware. (Later
I learned about "just either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder too
while you are at it")

I find that on hardware exposed for years to the elements, just buy
replacement hardware before hand.  Hardware is "cheap", and it is a lot
less frustrating to not have to worry if some stainless hardware is
galled, or some carbon steel nut is rusty, or the nylock nut is worn out!

I mean, Fastenal.com is NOT the cheapest place in the world (far from it),
but they will sell you one 1/4-20 stainless nylock nut for 20 cents (19
and change cents), or a bag of 50 for $9.78

Want to get crazy?  Use a flex top lock nut (looks like a castle nut, BUT
the top is just a compressed nut, think it locks like nylon, but is steel)

Another option is K-nuts/Jet nuts (usually only fine thread).  They lock
because of an elliptical offset, but they are expensive - try 2-3x the
price of a nylock nut.  They are usually NOT stainless, but _ARE_ often
mil-spec Cadmium Plate

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms21042.php