[TowerTalk] Ham Antenna Rotator: The Teardown

[Steve Bookout]

Would be nice if I included the link...

https://www.mcmaster.com/10175K15

Steve, NR4M



On 12/3/2018 5:57 PM, Steve Bookout wrote:
> Bob,
>
> This is what I've used for years on rotators and the slow speed 
> section of prop pitch gearboxes.  ( I use Amsoil 'Arctic Grease' for 
> the high speed gearing.)
>
> 73 de Steve, NR4M
>
> On 12/3/2018 5:46 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
>>   What grease should I use for the ball bearings ?  Anyone use 
>> synthetic grease ?
>> BobK6UJ
>>      On Monday, December 3, 2018, 12:39:53 PM PST, terry burge 
>> <ki7m at comcast.net> wrote:
>>     Concerning the hygain rotors. If you ever take one apart it can 
>> create a real mess and you can have ball bearings from here till 
>> dooms day. I use a large plastic tub of some kind about 2 1/2' square 
>> and 1' deep. Anything like this will do. Once the bearings start 
>> falling out it can be 'fun and games' getting them to stay in the 
>> races. A good amount of lithium grease or similar sticky stuff is a 
>> must. My tail twisters have some kind of plastic or (some) a metal 
>> device that is to hold the bearings in. But once they start failing 
>> out all bets are off.
>>
>> A weak spot of these rotors is the reastat (however it's spelled) 
>> loses electrical contact with the copper direction wiper. It can be 
>> cleaned up with cleaner and emery cloth. I think emery cloth would be 
>> better than steel wool but you need good contact with wiper and 
>> reasts for the direction meter to work. Be gentile and don't bend 
>> things much. An almost simpler method is to order a new copper wiper 
>> and reastat from HyGain/MFJ if you can understand the on line 
>> catalog. I find it kind of a pain and once ordering relays ended up 
>> with two metal plates for my remote switch. Relays they weren't. Some 
>> emails or phone calls and another order and I had replacement relays. 
>> Half my antenna ports failed so I figured it was one of two relays.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, the big things with is that working with these rotors aren't 
>> too bad and with some precautions they can be cleaned up and made to 
>> work. Just use a tub of some kind unless you like chasing the cat 
>> around on hands and knees to get the bearings back. What a mess. And 
>> you don't want any rolling around inside the bell housings during 
>> operation. Putting the rotor back together the bell has to be aligned 
>> properly to work in the slots. If I recall the problem shows up as 
>> the motor runs but the bell does not turn or only turns part way. 
>> Kind of a funky looking setup and can take awhile to say 'Ah-Hah', 
>> that's how it works'. Of course in the mean time bearing can be 
>> failing out of the races!
>>
>>   With the wedge break models (larger models) the wedge slips into 
>> the gear like slots around the lower bell housing. Pretty much the 
>> whole things should be greased well with some quality product that 
>> will stand up to wet and freezing conditions. Bearings, wedge, gears, 
>> etc. There maybe some product that will work well to keep the 
>> direction indicator lubed and functioning right but I don't recall 
>> what it might be. Got to conduct the current to work the meter. 
>> Meters not indicating are a weak point and it always seem to be 
>> because of poor contact of the reastat and wiper.
>>
>> If you take on the challenge of opening one of these or any 
>> rotor...do it slowly noting the position of things like bell housing 
>> and their matching slots, meter/restat, wedge break, etc. And use the 
>> large tub because it seem like you always end up chasing bearings. A 
>> good parts store or bearing dealer may be able to supply replacement 
>> missing bearings if you can find one. I once added bearings to one of 
>> the lesser earlier models just because I thought the idea of more 
>> bearings in the races made a lot of sense. Not sure if it helped but 
>> I was always building bigger and bigger antennas for that Ham 2 or 
>> whatever way back when.
>>
>> Hope this will help someone with this doable but challenging task. 
>> And ALWAYS test the rotor thoroughly before reinstalling it on the 
>> mast or tower. An ounce of prevention....
>>
>> Terry
>> KI7M
>>
>>> On December 3, 2018 at 9:14 AM Bryan Swadener via TowerTalk 
>>> <towertalk at contesting.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Ed,
>>> That good info but, not ALL Hy-Gain rotators are the general "bell" 
>>> style. The HDR-300 that came w/ my TX-472 tower is Hy-Gain's "red 
>>> headed step child" and is completely different. With some info from 
>>> Craig Henderson "The Rotor Doc" and a couple others, I've resolved 
>>> MOST of their design errors.
>>> vy 73,Bryan WA7PRC
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2018 07:35:06 -0800
>>> From: Ed AG6CX
>>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Ham Antenna Rotator: The Teardown
>>>
>>> Interesting article recently noted
>>>
>>> https://www.electronicdesign.com/analog/ham-antenna-rotator-teardown
>>>
>>> Ed McCann
>>> AG6CX
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
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