[TowerTalk] Ham Antenna Rotator: The Teardown

Mon Dec 3 18:33:28 EST 2018

Hi Bob,

I find the 'Amsoil Arctic grease' is better than the thicker grease for 
low temp operation.  The grease is about the consistency of petroleum 
jelly, but has excellent low temp characteristics.  I forget the 
numbers, but it's good to very low temp.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/arctic-synthetic-grease/

I had a problem with my stuff not wanting to turn when the temp was in 
the single digits.  Because it was so slow to turn, it would cause a 
fault in my Green Heron controller.

You should have no issue with either grease out in California.

Of course, this is just my opinion.

73 de Steve, NR4M

On 12/3/2018 6:18 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
>   Thanks Steve,
> I have my list of stuff to get for the rebuild just about finished and realized I need some grease too.  The Amzoil Arctic grease sounds great.  Not as demanding on bearings here in CA but I might as well use the best grease I can for the job.   Thanks for the recommendation !
> I have decided to not skimp and replace everything that is replaceable in the old T2X.  Getting both the rheostat and wiper, even the case bolts.  I think Murphy's Law for rebuilding rotators is "the part that you did not replace will be the part that will fail" hihihi.
> Lots of sage advice from you guys on rebuilding the rotator,  much appreciated !  Especially for setting up a way to capture the bearing balls so they don't roll all over the garage floor  :-)
> 73,BobK6UJ
>
>
>      On Monday, December 3, 2018, 3:03:34 PM PST, Steve Bookout <steve at nr4m.com> wrote:
>   
>   Would be nice if I included the link...
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/10175K15
>
> Steve, NR4M
>
>
>
> On 12/3/2018 5:57 PM, Steve Bookout wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> This is what I've used for years on rotators and the slow speed
>> section of prop pitch gearboxes.  ( I use Amsoil 'Arctic Grease' for
>> the high speed gearing.)
>>
>> 73 de Steve, NR4M
>>
>> On 12/3/2018 5:46 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
>>>    What grease should I use for the ball bearings ?  Anyone use
>>> synthetic grease ?
>>> BobK6UJ
>>>       On Monday, December 3, 2018, 12:39:53 PM PST, terry burge
>>> <ki7m at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>      Concerning the hygain rotors. If you ever take one apart it can
>>> create a real mess and you can have ball bearings from here till
>>> dooms day. I use a large plastic tub of some kind about 2 1/2' square
>>> and 1' deep. Anything like this will do. Once the bearings start
>>> falling out it can be 'fun and games' getting them to stay in the
>>> races. A good amount of lithium grease or similar sticky stuff is a
>>> must. My tail twisters have some kind of plastic or (some) a metal
>>> device that is to hold the bearings in. But once they start failing
>>> out all bets are off.
>>>
>>> A weak spot of these rotors is the reastat (however it's spelled)
>>> loses electrical contact with the copper direction wiper. It can be
>>> cleaned up with cleaner and emery cloth. I think emery cloth would be
>>> better than steel wool but you need good contact with wiper and
>>> reasts for the direction meter to work. Be gentile and don't bend
>>> things much. An almost simpler method is to order a new copper wiper
>>> and reastat from HyGain/MFJ if you can understand the on line
>>> catalog. I find it kind of a pain and once ordering relays ended up
>>> with two metal plates for my remote switch. Relays they weren't. Some
>>> emails or phone calls and another order and I had replacement relays.
>>> Half my antenna ports failed so I figured it was one of two relays.
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyway, the big things with is that working with these rotors aren't
>>> too bad and with some precautions they can be cleaned up and made to
>>> work. Just use a tub of some kind unless you like chasing the cat
>>> around on hands and knees to get the bearings back. What a mess. And
>>> you don't want any rolling around inside the bell housings during
>>> operation. Putting the rotor back together the bell has to be aligned
>>> properly to work in the slots. If I recall the problem shows up as
>>> the motor runs but the bell does not turn or only turns part way.
>>> Kind of a funky looking setup and can take awhile to say 'Ah-Hah',
>>> that's how it works'. Of course in the mean time bearing can be
>>> failing out of the races!
>>>
>>>    With the wedge break models (larger models) the wedge slips into
>>> the gear like slots around the lower bell housing. Pretty much the
>>> whole things should be greased well with some quality product that
>>> will stand up to wet and freezing conditions. Bearings, wedge, gears,
>>> etc. There maybe some product that will work well to keep the
>>> direction indicator lubed and functioning right but I don't recall
>>> what it might be. Got to conduct the current to work the meter.
>>> Meters not indicating are a weak point and it always seem to be
>>> because of poor contact of the reastat and wiper.
>>>
>>> If you take on the challenge of opening one of these or any
>>> rotor...do it slowly noting the position of things like bell housing
>>> and their matching slots, meter/restat, wedge break, etc. And use the
>>> large tub because it seem like you always end up chasing bearings. A
>>> good parts store or bearing dealer may be able to supply replacement
>>> missing bearings if you can find one. I once added bearings to one of
>>> the lesser earlier models just because I thought the idea of more
>>> bearings in the races made a lot of sense. Not sure if it helped but
>>> I was always building bigger and bigger antennas for that Ham 2 or
>>> whatever way back when.
>>>
>>> Hope this will help someone with this doable but challenging task.
>>> And ALWAYS test the rotor thoroughly before reinstalling it on the
>>> mast or tower. An ounce of prevention....
>>>
>>> Terry
>>> KI7M
>>>
>>>> On December 3, 2018 at 9:14 AM Bryan Swadener via TowerTalk
>>>> <towertalk at contesting.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Ed,
>>>> That good info but, not ALL Hy-Gain rotators are the general "bell"
>>>> style. The HDR-300 that came w/ my TX-472 tower is Hy-Gain's "red
>>>> headed step child" and is completely different. With some info from
>>>> Craig Henderson "The Rotor Doc" and a couple others, I've resolved
>>>> MOST of their design errors.
>>>> vy 73,Bryan WA7PRC
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2018 07:35:06 -0800
>>>> From: Ed AG6CX
>>>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Ham Antenna Rotator: The Teardown
>>>>
>>>> Interesting article recently noted
>>>>
>>>> https://www.electronicdesign.com/analog/ham-antenna-rotator-teardown
>>>>
>>>> Ed McCann
>>>> AG6CX
>>>> _______________________________________________
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