[TowerTalk] Prop Pitch Grease preference or recommendation

[Mac]

Readers thank you for the quick and all helpful experiences.

This is great Steve, and so welcomed help..  The Amsoil was easy to look 
up and review and skip the porn sites and advertisements by not entering 
the pesky "Lube for Life"  as the search line..

Best and 73:  mac/mc w5mc

On 1/8/2020 8:10 PM, jimlux wrote:
> On 1/8/20 3:04 PM, Steve Bookout wrote:
>> Hi Mac,
>>
>> I've rebuilt several P/P gear boxes and have had issues in the past 
>> with the grease being too thick in the high speed planetary gear 
>> area.  When the wx would get really cold (for VA) in the teens, it 
>> would want to turn so slowly that it would 'fault' the Green Heron 
>> controller.  This was when I had it set up for 'ramping' the speed 
>> up/down.  I would just have to change the 'ramp' setting to get it 
>> working again.
>>
>> So, the last time I did any, I did a bunch of research and found 
>> Amsoil Arctic grease. 
>> https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/arctic-synthetic-grease/ 
>> The performance ratings are fine and comparable to other greases, but 
>> it's good for really low temps.  The viscosity reminds me of hair 
>> gel; not really thick at all.  And, it synthetic!  Temp range of -75 
>> to 315 degrees F.
>>
>
>
> The other approach is a small thermostatic strip heater. That's what 
> we do for dish pedestals that are in areas that get cold, but not 
> arctic. (say down to 0F).  Depending on how your controller is set up, 
> you might just be able to parallel the heater with the DC power to the 
> motor, so you wouldn't need to run additional power. You'd command a 
> move, and the motor would turn slowly, but the heater would also turn 
> on, softening the grease. After a couple moves it might well have 
> solved the problem.
>
> The Omega catalog is one place to start, but they're also available 
> from the usual industrial suppliers like Grainger & McMaster (and, I'm 
> sure Amazon from some previously unknown manufacturer in China) - 
> they're not an exotic device, and they're available in a variety of 
> resistances, power ratings, etc. Finding one to work on 12V or 28V 
> would be no problem.
>
> You could probably also epoxy a resistor the side of the rotator, but 
> I think the self adhesive strip heater (or a heater under a band 
> clamp) would be more elegant.
>
> {I hesitate to suggest it, but since someone was in my office talking 
> about laser propulsion the other day: All you need is a high power 
> (say 10W) laser on the ground pointed at your rotator on the tower, 
> which you have painted or covered with a suitable absorber. You can 
> get a frighteningly high power laser for a remarkably low price.  You 
> could also use this to melt the ice off your yagi, I suppose. And to 
> solve any problems that the plastic owl didn't fix.}
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