[TowerTalk] Rotor Cabling Query

Richard Thorne rthorne at rthorne.net
Sat Apr 3 08:51:49 EDT 2021


This is my next step.

I'm using the Green Heron Everywhere wireless system for my antenna 
switching and rotor controls (RT-21's).

The RT-21's are off my operating desk and sitting on a shelf at the 
antenna entrance wall.

The next step is to move them out to the tower base in a water proof 
enclosure.

The other option is a 4O3A Rotor Genius.  Either run an either net cable 
to the tower or setup a wireless bridge.

Both of the above options require power at the base of the tower.

Rich - N5ZC

On 4/2/2021 10:37 PM, Lux, Jim wrote:
> On 4/2/21 4:10 PM, CEPitts wrote:
>> I would like to hear from those in regards to ideas for the following. 
>> I know there are those who have long runs of control cabling for 
>> rotation, switching, etc. so I seek your ideas and advice.
>>
>> I have a need for a temporary set up of a run that is 300 feet from 
>> the operating position shack/controller to the top of the tower 
>> controlling a Ham 4 rotator. The final set up with be a run of 700 
>> feet from tower to the operating position shack/controller
>>
>> Would it be best to provide a disconnect near the connection point at 
>> the top of the tower with a short pigtail to the Ham 4, as well as a 
>> disconnect/splice point at the bottom of the tower, and a final run to 
>> the shack/controller?
>>
>> Based on previous discussions/ideas tossed around here within the last 
>> 2-3 weeks I would most likely take some ideas from the group in 
>> regards to utlizing trailer type connects/disconnects and also splices 
>> within the entire run.
>>
>> A primary point/concern of my post is the length of the run on the 
>> temporary 300 ft and to the final goal of 700 ft. What size of the 
>> conductors/wire/cable to utilize for the effort. Some part being heavy 
>> duty 8 conductor rotor cabling in conjuction with splices and/or runs 
>> of UF solid wire cabling from 14 gauge to 10 gauge such as 14/3, etc. 
>> or other such ideas on conductor size. A reasonable cost/maintenance 
>> perspective would be ideal keeping in mind going from the 300 ft to 
>> the 700 ft in the future and ease of said transistion. None of this 
>> will be buried, I have that part taken care of.
>>
>> *(tower/rotor)*****short pigtail/run-->>>---*****(pigtail/connect 
>> splice)*****run to bottom of tower -->>>-->>>-----*** **(bottom of 
>> tower/connect splice) *****--->>>---->>>---*-****temp 
>> run*****>>---->>>>>>>---->>>>>>----->>>>>>>------>>>>>------->>>>> 300 
>> ft expanding to 700 ft>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>> (later to be the permanent run)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>*** **to connect/splice 
>> back to 8 conductor rotor cable ham 4 controller in shack.****
>>
>> Besides possibly utilizing trailer type connects/disconnects I was 
>> also considering utilizing 8-10 conductor terminal blocks for 
>> splices/junctions etc. and I could possibly place those in weather 
>> resistant boxes at those points where required....What is the thought 
>> on that approach?**
>>
>> Thank you for all the input/ideas and73! Ed K5OF in NC
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
> I'm moving to an RF link (WiFi or long range serial) and just sending 
> raw power out. You can run pretty small wire and use a boost transformer 
> to overcome the voltage loss.  Put your rotator controller in a 
> weatherproof box at the tower.
> 
> 
> The brake draws 5A @ 24V according to the manual. You probably need 20V 
> or so minimum, so for 1400 ft (out and back), to keep the voltage drop 
> at 6V from the usual 26V transformer, the resistance has to be less than 
> about an ohm.  AWG10 is 1 ohm/1000 ft.  So you'd need what, AWG 8? 
> That's a pretty substantial expense.
> 
> The manual calls for AWG14 for 300 ft. You're running more than twice 
> that, so to keep the resistance the same, you need to go down 3 gauges 
> (3 gauges is twice the area/half the resistance). They call out AWG16 
> for most of the other wires than the common and brake. (The motor draws 
> 2.25A)
> 
> 
> Someone probably makes a suitable interface (Green Heron?).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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