[TowerTalk] ...and another coax adapter question

[Jim Brown]

AARGH!  Thanks, Rick. Sorry, I can't help with that.

73, Jim K9YC

On 11/24/2023 1:30 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
> Unfortunately, if I search "Manufacturers" on the DigiKey site, there 
> are dozens of listings that start with the word "Amphenol" followed
> by the name of some non-Amphenol entity that has been acquired by
> Amphenol.  Obviously, Amphenol is now simply a holding company
> and the name no longer necessarily means anything.  Jim, with
> a background in audio, will identify with the destruction of JBL
> after its acquisition by Harmon-Kardon.
> 
> Specifically, at D/K, they show:
> 
> Amphenol
> Amphenol Connex (Amphenol RF)
> Amphenol RF
> Amphenol Times Microwave
> 
> The latter name had a decent reputation at least before being acquired.
> 
> Can you give us any additional guidance as to how to identify
> the "REAL" Amphenol connectors?
> 
> 73
> Rick N6RK
> 
> On 11/24/2023 11:53 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On 11/24/2023 10:59 AM, Scott Townley wrote:
>>> How do I separate the wheat from the chaff?  I have a fully equipped 
>>> bench...I would think the go-to would be a TDR measurement.  Any 
>>> better/additional suggestions?
>>
>> Look at them carefully. If they aren't labeled Amphenol or stamped 
>> with MIL-spec numbers, they're junk.  It's all about mechanical 
>> construction. Measurements won't show it.
>>
>> I've bought surplus MIL-spec adapters at ham flea-markets. Amphenol 
>> parts are sold by legacy electronics vendors like Allied, Newark, 
>> Arrow, etc. There are a few ham vendors who sell them, but many also 
>> sell junk connectors. The real thing is 2-3x more expensive. Here's 
>> one quality vendor that sells both the real thing and the junk. They 
>> don't offer quantity discounts, while the traditional electronics 
>> vendors do.
>>
>> https://www.rfparts.com/sitemap
>>
>> We sometimes need to study the Amphenol parts listing to know which 
>> connector to buy. For example, they manufacture the solder-type PL259 
>> with at least 4 different part numbers, all of which start with 
>> 83-1SP. The one we want is the one with no suffix, because the body is 
>> silver plated, and thus easier to solder to.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> _______________________________________________
> 
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