[UK-CONTEST] PL259 Connector loss

[David]

Ian

I teach the intermediate course how to solder using a PL259 of the worst
type and show them how to do it by using a file and a drill. File the
plating off near the hole and slightly enlarge the hole by drilling it out.
But I also teach them to tin the braid on the coax and cut off the access
braid. This makes soldering the plug on to the braid easier.

I demonstrate by doing one end of a short length of RG213. They do the other
end to prove they have learned the lesson and can do this part of the
course. They get a good patch lead for their shack.

Having done the above, I then show them a braid clamp type and tell them to
only ever use this type.

I agree the silver plated connectors are the best solder type but not seen
them in the UK in recent years. I understand that silver plating has lower
IMD than nickel plating. Probably the difference is not material but may be
some one knows better than I?

73 David

-----Original Message-----
From: uk-contest-bounces at contesting.com
[mailto:uk-contest-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK
Sent: 01 February 2012 10:27
To: uk-contest at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [UK-CONTEST] PL259 Connector loss

G4BUO wrote:
>Hear, hear. Nickel-plated PL259s are really hard to solder to. On my 
>visits to Dayton I used to buy bags of silver-plated PL259s, worked out 
>at less than a dollar each but it is a few years since I went. These 
>plugs take solder very well and it is much easier to make a good 
>soldered connection before the polythene dielectric melts!
>
>The best way to deal wih a nickel-plated PL259 is to throw it in the 
>bin. The second best way is to file away the plating so you expose the 
>brass.
>
>Ok, I am standing by for the emails from those who say you should only 
>ever use N-type!
>

Not from me.  The 'UHF' series has kept its place at HF for very good
reasons.

Two useful tips for soldering the braid to nickel-plated 259s (thanks to 'In
Practice' contributors over the years):

1. File across the 4 holes with a 3-4mm round file. Cut away the full depth
of nickel plating inside the hole to leave a thin feather edge of bare brass
which heats up and takes solder much more easily.

Try that one - it really does work.

2. To help a small iron along, pre-heat the plug body with a hot air gun.


But having said that, I don't buy old-style 259s any more. The rubber 
sleeve compression type are well worth the extra money.



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
_______________________________________________
UK-Contest mailing list
UK-Contest at contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/uk-contest