>
>I hate to agree with Phil (HI HI) but
>I've also had several of the Millen
>connectors fail at 4200vdc.
>Mounted in oversize hole (sanded smooth)
>and nylon hardware. Big badda boom!!
>Stopped using them.
>Paul
? Amen, Paul. I have heard many similar reports. In dry climes,
phenolic is more reliable. Hygroscopic material (phenolic) is an
accident waiting to happen around HV.
cheers
>
>PAUL HEWITT
>WD7S PRODUCTIONS
>QRO HOMEBREW COMPONENTS
>http://wd7s.home.att.net
>
>
>
>
>
>I really get my caps charged (he-he!)
>about all the bantering regarding the
>Millen hv connectors. I`ve been using
>reds&whites in both of my 4pr1000a
>amps for over 25 years with no problems
>at 5500vdc in one amp, 6700vdc in
>the other! I think a lot of problems
>start with poor design & workmanship as
>I`ve sure seen a lot of hashed together
>amps some people try to build!
>Something I discovered several years
>ago: Belden # 734710 7mm metalic spark
>plug wire,availiable at NAPA auto
>suppliers, great for hv amp wiring.
>I really can`t figure why anyone would
>want to run shielding on any hv
>wiring.. for one thing I would never run
>hv cabling where the operator(me!)
>could get near it when energized and who
>in his right mind would handle hv
>cable (or any other hv) without pulling
>the plug& bleeding the hv?
>Really folks, it tickles me reading some
>of the lame subject matter on this
>reflector... Now don`t take me wrong...
>I am no expert on building amps,but
>I take pride in good craftmanship and
>thats paid off for me over the years!
>73 all around, Jim K7RDX
>
>
>> > I have been down that road also,
>Paul! I solved the problem years ago
>when
>> > I
>> > started mounting the
>> > socket to the chassis a bit
>differently. I drill a hole in the
>chassis
>> > slightly
>> > smaller than the width of the
>> > socket. I then fashion a rectangle
>of 1/4" plexiglass slightly larger
>> > than the
>> > dimensions of the socket. A
>> > hole is then drilled in the center
>of the plexiglass slightly larger
>than
>> > the
>> > shaft of the socket. Then
>> > 2- #6 holes are drilled through the
>plexiglass and chassis to match the
>> > mounting
>> > holes on the socket.
>> > This gives C. 1/4 inch separation
>between the socket and chassis. I have
>> > had
>> > zero failures since I
>> > changed the mounting scheme. Every
>failure previous to the change was
>> > right
>> > where yours was;
>> > where the shaft of the socket passes
>through the chassis. I would never
>> > dream of
>> > pushing the
>> > ratings above 6 kv. on the red or
>black units. The yellow units should
>> > never be
>> > used > 1 kv,
>> > IMO.
>> [Steve Katz] Don't know about the 1kV
>rating, sounds pretty skinny.
>> But I've seen the blue corona
>(darkened room) around Millen HV sockets
>only
>> when improper mounting hardware was
>used or the socket installed with such
>> mounting force (stainless machine
>screws torqued to within a hair of
>> breaking) that the Millen socket
>material began cracking. When I install
>> the connectors myself, I've never had
>a problem. Same sockets and plugs
>> used on HT PSUs here since 1967-68 in
>many cases. Highest voltage on any
>of
>> them is 4400V, though. Never tried
>6-7kV. Never used "tetrodes with
>> handles," either!
>>
>> WB2WIK/6
>> > (((73)))
>> > Phil, K5PC
>
>
>--
>FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/amps
>Submissions: amps@contesting.com
>Administrative requests: amps-REQUEST@contesting.com
>Problems: owner-amps@contesting.com
>
>
- R. L. Measures, 805.386.3734,AG6K, www.vcnet.com/measures.
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