I own 2 LK-500 amps, one a "B" and the other a "C".
The "B" came without a high/low switch for the fan. Yes it runs quiet
in that position but does not cool the tubes when you are operating
for any length of time. The "C" model sort of cures the problem with the
switch. You have to remember to operate it ...
The switch shorts out 2- 10 watt resistors in parallel (I forget the value)
in series with the fan motor. The normal voltage is about 55 volts on the 120
volt van. So
you can do one of 2 things, a add the switch or install thermostats to have the
amp do it
by itself. In my case I did the mods to the "B" (thermostats) I use 2, one
the resistors out at about 160 degrees F. The other adds a third resistor
across the first
2, again I have forgotten the value but the result brings the fan to 75 volts
or so when the
temperature hits about 135 or 140 degrees. The 'sats are on a bracket between
and near the outer part of the chassis. The fan speed "stages" as the
The location insures the fan air is monitored after cooling the tubes.
I am quite happy with the result.
Now your second question. First, the bandswitch has an extra set of unused
20, 15 and 10 meters. Add jumpers to the section of the wafer that is switching
the coil taps.
This will take some of the current off the main contacts. You also could add an
wire or a bigger wire (#12) from switch output to the loading capacitor. his
should reduce IR
losses (or IZ losses) in the tank circuit.
The bandswitch "problems" are, I believe a result of high current through the
switch on the upper
bands. Removing heat helps everything, tubes, switch, etc.
In operation the lower stat (in series with resistor #3) goes on almost
immediately with first contact.
It will open up and the fan slows down if that's all the operation at that
time. As things get going
ala a contest the fan goes full bore intermittently as needed.
Hope this helps ... Good Luck, we're all counting on you
Amps mailing list