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[Amps] reading and tuning

To: <robrk@nidhog.net>, <w7ry@inbox.com>
Subject: [Amps] reading and tuning
From: Charles Harpole <k4vud@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 04:16:22 +0000
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
READING... It is rather difficult to get closer than 10% measuring your RF 
output due to meter variations at the ham finance level.  The Bird wattmeter is 
the silver standard, but the gold and platinum meters of other brands/models 
are more costly.  The Bird can be fitted with peak reading, a Bird mod, but it 
requires batteries inside the unit which die very fast if the peak function is 
left on and which are trouble to replace due to screwing the case open and 
closed..  Read the Bird claimed specs and see the latitude.
Other ham-grade wattmeters run in the 20% to 30% error margins.  The Elecraft 
Wattmeter I have reads 160 watts from my 200 watt radio into a 50 ohm dummy 
load, for example.  The Elecraft is a toy that lights up.  Many other brands 
run in the same league, but most do not light up.  I have never tested the 
Alpha meter and wish to hear user reports on it.  Also, I need information on 
the use of Ampere meters measuring RF output.
To get an approx. of RF out, use a straight key or switch to key your rig on CW 
mode.  That is "key down RF out."  Some folks switch to FM mode to output RF, 
but it is possible that that mode (transmitting at full output) does not output 
the same RF level as the CW test will give.  AM mode on most rigs nowdays 
outputs much less than full CW power.
Measuring RF out in SSB voice mode is even more difficult due to many 
variables, including meter inaccuracies (which are inherently greater in peak 
mode) and your voice characteristics which may not be graphic equalized for max 
out.  The "two tone test" provides two different audio tones to the rig which 
should give a good indication of SSB voice RF output because this kind of input 
is at a steady level (unlike voice) and also includes two voice audio freqs. to 
simulate voice keying.  
Note: please do not whistle or "aahhhh" or growl in the mic to do tests.  Not 
only does it sound stupid to your listeners, these audio freqs. are so unlike 
real voice as to give false peak readings.  Some claim a loud whistle into some 
mics actually destroy some mic funtion due to overload.
TUNING....  The best and simplest way to get RF from ur exciter to tune your 
amplifier is to use "CW key down RF out" mode.  That is, to key your exciter 
via a CW Morse key or a switch, adjust the exciter output to desired level (50 
watts average usage), then un-key and turn on the amp.  Then, key the exciter 
again and tune your amp for correct match and output.  A Morse key allows you 
to un-key quickly if needed and many keys have a key-down-locking-switch on 
them for that application.
The problem with this "best" way is that many exciters must be manually 
switched to CW mode to get the above action which inserts more activity by the 
operator.  However, the new Yaesu 9000 line, for example, allows instant CW 
keying from the ssb voice mode... just close the key and the exciter is putting 
out RF with the added bonus of remaining on your SSB frequency (should you wish 
to work someone in two modes on the same freq.).  Some modern rigs allow this 
function, but they do not shift the xmit freq to match the SSB pre-existing 
freq. 
Interestingly, Alpha manuals say to tune for max out and say nothing about 
dipping the plate or the other old ways.  This is called "tuning for max smoke" 
meaning that one should not bother too much except to get max out (and WATCH 
THE GRID CURRENT to keep it low enuf).  This is probably good advice since "max 
out" should be also the best resonant point in matching the antenna via the pi 
net in the amp to the amp.
73, K4VUD



Charles Harpole
k4vud@hotmail.com   



> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:27:51 -0400
> From: robrk@nidhog.net
> To: w7ry@inbox.com
> CC: amps@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [Amps] HF AMP Issues questions
> 
> On 9/19/10 4:42 PM, Jim W7RY wrote:
> > BUT you can only see the real output power if you have a peak reading
> > wattmeter. If you have one, your good. If you don't you cannot read the
> > real power output of the amplifier.
> >
> > 73
> > Jim W7RY
> 
> 
> BUT you can if you have a straight key and any wattmeter (or an FM button on 
> the 
> radio).
> 
> 
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