I have been using my slingshot for about ten years here near smoggy
Los Angeles with no deterioration of the rubber. However, I keep it
in the original box that describes it as a "wrist braced" slingshot,
and the box is placed in a plastic bag. I do wear safety glasses
when I use the slingshot, and I do check the rubber for hardening or
cracking as suggested by the manufacturer.
73, Harvey, N6MM HDHETLAND@PACCD.CC.CA.US
>From H. Ward Silver" <email@example.com Wed Jun 15 19:57:06 1994
From: H. Ward Silver" <firstname.lastname@example.org (H. Ward Silver)
Subject: Washington State Salmon Run 1994
Hi all...yes, Virginia, there will be a Salmon Run this September...unless
Clinton and VEs get in a huff and close the season. (Sorry, regional humor)
The date is the 4th weekend in September. I'll post the summarized rules
as soon as I get a complete list from K7WA. Somebody ran off with my copy
at the DX club mtg last night.
73, Ward N0AX
Western Wash DX Club Prez
>From K2ZJ <JVCARIOTI@c5vr.syr.ge.com> Wed Jun 15 20:31:57 1994
From: K2ZJ <JVCARIOTI@c5vr.syr.ge.com> (K2ZJ)
Subject: More slingshot stuff
I find the most important thing in the whole slingshot/fishing line/in the tree
operation is the "smoothness" of the transition between the monofilament line
and the heavier string.
I have found that any sort of knot arrangement usually results in a large
enough "bump" to snag in the branches.
I usually just wrap electrical tape over the "knot", just enough so that the
whole joint is smooth.
Using this method, I have seldom had any snags in the branches.
This advice is even more important if you do a second trasition from light
"rope" to heavier rope before attaching the antenna. The knotting becomes
even larger. In this case you might even want to consider no knot at all.
Just overlap the two ends of the rope by about 15 inches and tape the two
pieces together tightly with electrical tape. This results in a relatively
smooth transition between the two pieces. I have never had the two pieces
come apart, because there is never really a reason to really yank on the rope
since it doesn't get snagged.
By the way, this sort of info on the reflector is what makes it a great
resource for novice thru expert!
>From DFREY" <HARRIS.DFREY@IC1D.HARRIS.COM Wed Jun 15 20:35:14 1994
From: DFREY" <HARRIS.DFREY@IC1D.HARRIS.COM (DFREY)
Subject: Gooey heatshrink
Message-ID: <QCY2.DFREY.4752.1994 0615 14 35 14 35>
The inside-gooey heatshrink is available through the major
electronics parts houses. Any dealer in Alpha or Belden wire
also. However, like most things, you have your minimum order
quantity hassles, etc. What to do with the other 97 feet....
Try your friendly local cable TV installer. They use the
right stuff in the proper size for their underground splices
and might be willing to sell you a couple of the pieces for
a reasonable price.
You must have a good heat gun or torch to make it work right
- gotta melt the goo too. Also keep in mind that this
renders the resulting joint nonrepairable, effectively
potting it from the elements ...and anyone who might want to
fix the parts at a later date.
dick, K4XU email@example.com