Where do you place the toroids? The mfg said not to use an extension cord. I
took one apart and though I see the two wire from the outlet, there just is not
enough room for anything like a toroid inside. How about bypass caps across
the line, would that work?
Dale, k9vuj
On 26, Oct 2013, at 17:05, Christopher Brown <cbrown@woods.net> wrote:
>
>
> Far as RF trigger... Both the old NighthHawks and the new ones are
> triggered by conducted RF. Attic antenna w/ 100watts... 160 - 10 will
> trigger. Remote antenna, still triggers 160 - 40 if running more than
> 400watts.
>
> The toroids take care of that.
>
>
> Looking at the datasheet for KN-COP-DP-LS, it is the smaller direct to
> outlet type without the removable wart, for use only where you have low
> outlets.
>
>
> You might look at
>
> KN-COEG-3
> KN-COPP-3
>
> These are both larger units with a remotable wart.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 10/23/13 1:10 PM, dalej wrote:
>> Just a heads up.
>>
>> I purchased a Kidde NightHawk CO2 detector model KN-COP-DP-LS, it is
>> designed to plug into a wall outlet plus it has a 9 v. battery backup
>> and LED readout. While transmitting on 80 meters after a while it
>> starts audible warning, very loud. I called the company tech support
>> line and they did not have any solution. As an experiment I plugged
>> the detector into a two wire extension cord and wrapped the extension
>> around a #31 mix snap-on, then tested and it did not go off. The
>> tech support said not to use an extension cable with the detector.
>>
>> So if you are looking for a CO2 detector be aware of this problem
>> with 80 meter RFI tripping the detector. I went to strictly battery
>> powered CO2 detector and that works fine.
>>
>> Dale, k9vuj _______________________________________________ RFI
>> mailing list RFI@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi
>>
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