>The potentiometer wasn't marked other than with a manufacturer's
>number. It measured 211k across the ends, and mid-way on the rotor the
>resistance from the slider to either side was 176k/35k, so I think
>it's safe to call it a "220k log".
Yep.
--
Neal, NL7VL
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On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 15:06:38 +0000
Steve Hunt <steve@karinya.net> wrote:
>The potentiometer wasn't marked other than with a manufacturer's
>number. It measured 211k across the ends, and mid-way on the rotor the
>resistance from the slider to either side was 176k/35k, so I think
>it's safe to call it a "220k log".
>
>73,
>Steve G3TXQ
>
>On 07/02/2011 14:34, NL7VL wrote:
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> So you're saying that the double-gang notch pot on the Corsair I is a
>> 220K? That's about how it measured out with the ohm meter, but it
>> does say 500K on the schematic. Jerry's right about things showing
>> up on the case of the pots, but all I saw was what looked to be an
>> OEM part number or something like it. Please let us know how it goes.
>>
>> There are a few DDS mods for the oldies out there - like N4YG's mod.
>> I have a Corsair II PTO that I will be investigating this week. It's
>> kind of a crap-shoot with those things: The Century 21 I have stays
>> within 50hz after warm-up, but it was rebuilt no so long ago. Going
>> with the DDS + display combo heads off future problems with the
>> original display, too. Not a bad idea. I had thought about using a
>> "Huff-and-Puff" or some kind of fast response phase lock loop on the
>> PTO, but maybe that's not the way to go.
>>
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