Pete,
the first line of troubleshooting this project would be to pop the top and
bottom, watch out for that speaker wire, and then one at a time pull and reset
each and every one of the MTA (mass termination assemblies) ---those white
connectors with the wire wires---
do that on each one and several times.
there can be oxide that builds up on the pin and by exercising the connections,
you'll fix a lot of problems.
I'm not saying that will smash your bugs, but it's a good place to start.
do every connection going to the logic board and the front panel.
Mike, wb8vge
On Sep 16, 2012, at 10:15 AM, N6QW wrote:
> Before I take out the Golden Screwdriver and really mess things up --thought
> I would test the list to look for divine guidance.
>
> I have a Omni 6+ Opt 3 that has been inactive for several years. I put it
> back on line yesterday and for the most part it works FB.
>
> I noted that the "clock time" was off by about 35 minutes. So in looking in
> the manual I see that by holding in the "Lock" button for one second gives
> access to the menus and the clock set is in Menu 1. Sure enough I did that
> and the panel display read "Change". The next step is to hit the "Enter"
> button to scroll through the 13 menus. Only in my case it does not go through
> the menus but returns to the normal display as before engaging the "Lock'
> button.
>
> So then I thought perhaps a partial reset would cure the issue --nothing. So
> next I tried the "master" rest process -- nothing --same issue. Then I
> thought Ahhh -- the lithium coin cell battery needs replacing. I popped in a
> NIB battery and still the same issue.
>
> Perhaps related is another issue. Before I did the two resets --the NO relay
> contacts on K1 worked so I could turn on a linear amp. That no longer works.
> The cable to the amp was tested as was the amp switching and they are good. (
> The amp is a SB-200 with the soft key mod so I do not think anything was fed
> back into the Omni 6 to kill the keying). The keying relay K1 is triggered by
> Q16 (MPS6514) but the driving signal to Q16 comes from the Logic Board via
> connector 59. U22, pin 4 sets the driving signal to Q16. When this pin goes
> high it keys Q16 which engages K1. So this may be the connection related to
> the first problem (after the two resets) as the driving signal comes from the
> Logic board and it is the same board which has a problem in not being able to
> scroll through the menus.
>
> Any thoughts or inputs are welcome. I would normally call TT but it happened
> on Saturday and this is Sunday so I can't do that until tomorrow.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Pete N6QW
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