The guy in Dallas is named, I think, Cal and is still very much active
with a web site at http://www.hamrepair.com/
He was recommended to me by another friend that knows him personally.
Clif Holland used to be in the FW area, but moved to Mabank, TX, some
years ago. Cal and Clif apparently know each other and both are
considered superb repair technicians won the older gear, such as
TS-930/940/950. I recently had my 930 repaired by Clif Holland, but it
may be the last one he fixes. He recently noted on his web site that his
doctor limits his lifting to no more than 35 pounds. The '930 weights 38
and so is among the rigs explicitly listed on his site that he no longer
services. That's a loss to the community because Clif knows these rigs
astonishingly well.
Cal at Ham Repair is said to be as good as Clif, but I cannot vouch for
them based on my personal experience. It's worth a shot, though!
Kim N5OP
On 5/23/2018 4:43 PM, Stuart Rohre wrote:
There was a ham in DFW area well regarded on Kenwood repairs. Not sure
he is still active.
Service manual for 850 is on internet, has schematics and assembly
drawings and photos.
The problem you have is probably bad
asian built electrolytic capacitors on the voltage bus for the display
board. I am not sure if these are on the display board or on one of
the other boards. See service manual.
Some bypassing was done with parallel bus caps, and both of the
failing caps need to be replaced at same time. if originals were rated
15 volts put in 25 volt new ones The originals may have electrolytic
leaks, or swollen cases or ends. Clean any electrolytic leaks
immediately upon finding them or they could corrode and loosen the
copper traces. Peeled copper traces can be replaced with short
lengths of tinned no. 26 solid telephone frame wire jumpers. Run the
wire to a pad of the same trace and use clean iron tip, wet sponge
wiper, and quality tin/lead solder of thin diameter, close to that of
the copper jumper. insulate the wire.
Don't use too hot an iron. 15 watts iron, cleanly soldered, should work.
If soldering in a copper run, scrape the coating from the copper trace
before soldering. Get the copper bright, then tin it.
GL, we just revitalized three shorted electro. caps on the club 850
here, at W5KA, by replacement.
-Stuart Rohre
K5KVH
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--
Kim Elmore, Ph.D. (Adj. Assoc. Prof., OU School of Meteorology, CCM, PP
SEL/MEL/Glider, N5OP, 2nd Class Radiotelegraph, GROL)
/"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in
practice, there is." //– Attributed to many people; it’s so true that it
doesn’t matter who said it./
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