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Re: [TowerTalk] Hardware Question

To: mahlonhaunschild@cox.net
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Hardware Question
From: Jack Berry <jlberry@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 06:05:35 -0800 (PST)
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I have used a combination approach. A 100 what gun
with the PL-259 resting on the hot gun tip and a
Weller butane at the hole for localized heat.

Going the other direction - What are the potential
consequences of NOT soldering the connector to the
shield? I have two non-soldered connectors in service
now with no problems so far. Both are in fixed
service, zero coax movement.

--- Mahlon Haunschild <mahlonhaunschild@cox.net>
wrote:
> Tom,
> 
> Wussy irons like you describe will do what you
> describe:  melt the cable 
> without making a good solder connection to the
> connector.  I used to use 
> a Weller 200/240-watt soldering gun for PL-259
> shells, but not even that 
> beast put out enough heat.  These days I use a
> butane mini-torch.  Much 
> lighter and therefore easier to control.
> 
> More heat is better than less in this case, at least
> in my experience. 
> The idea is to get the "hole area" of the connector
> hot enough quickly 
> enough so that you can solder the braid to the
> connector shell quickly 
> enough that the jacket/dielectric (esp. foam
> dielectric) doesn't have 
> enough time to melt.  Use a mini-vise to hold the
> cable to position the 
> connector so you can solder two holes with one
> set-up.
> 
> OK, you caught me at a weak moment:  here follows my
> mystical PL-259 
> installation procedure, developed painstakingly over
> a LONG period of 
> time:   Strip jacket/braid/dielectric CORRECTLY. 
> Flux the braid with a 
> small amount of GOOD flux (not that Rat Shack crap;
> I use strain gauge 
> flux).  Tin the braid with a soldering iron; use
> only enough solder to 
> do the job, excess will prevent installation of the
> connector.  Cool the 
> cable/braid w/damp rag.  Double-check the end to
> ensure that no stray 
> braid strands are where they shouldn't be.  Flux the
> braid again.  Screw 
> connector onto cable.  Place connector into vise
> with the cable wound up 
> 1/2 turn.  Heat w/torch and solder holes 1 & 2. 
> Release vise; the cable 
> will by itself position for holes 3 & 4.  Heat
> w/torch and solder holes 
> 3 and 4.  IMMEDIATELY quench the connector with the
> damp rag.
> 
> Using this method, I have not had a connector
> failure in something like 
> 18 years.
> 
> 5 cents, please.  I accept PayPal.
> 
> Oh, by the way: results not guaranteed on vinyl
> cable jackets (but 
> surely you don't have any of that, do you?).
> 
> regards,
> 
> Mahlon - K4OQ
> 
> Tom Anderson wrote:
> > Fellow Tower Talkians:
> > 
> > Any suggestions for a high wattage soldering iron
> good for using on 
> > PL259s (100 watts or so??)?   Most of the 25-40
> watt irons found in the 
> > mass hardware places (Home Depot/Lowes) seem to
> melt more die-electric 
> > than solder.  Anyone use/have any luck with opne
> of those Sears  100/400 
> > watt soldering gun?
> > 
> > Tom, WW5L
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com  for "Self Supporting
> Towers", "Wireless Weather Stations", and lot's
> more.  Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any
> questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> 
> 


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See: http://www.mscomputer.com  for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless Weather 
Stations", and lot's more.  Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any questions 
and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.

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