The silver ones with gold pins work great. I had some with silver plated
pins as well, but had some corrosion problems with them.
When using the standard nickel plated ones, it's important to take a file
and remove the plating anywhere you intend to solder.
I've been quite happy with the method that pre-tins the woven braid in place
and then cuts it back before inserting it into the PL259. I use a medium or
large size butane iron for most of this work.
Ty K3MM
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Tim Duffy K3LR
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 5:57 PM
To: Ian White GM3SEK
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering PL259s - What I do
I have hundreds of silver plated PL-259s in service at my station. They are
all
soldered the same way. It is different from what almost everyone else does.
Good soldered shields are very important to me.
I was never sure my shields were well soldered or had melted the dielectric
before using this method (before 1982).
Bill, N4AR taught me how to do this and I have been doing this
"unconventional
method" ever since.
Using silver plated PL259s makes this system a breeze. I use the ones that
say
"Made in USA" on the shell.
I will try to describe the method. I need to post some pictures on my web
site.
Take a fully assembled (shell + body) connector.
Measure the connector against the RG8 (or similar) coax.
Take the outer covering of the coax off with a sharp knife.
Pull the braid back all the way by fanning it out.
Wrap 3 to 4 turns of Scotch 88 black tape around the center conductor
dielectric
up against the fanned out braid.
Use wire strippers and remove the remaining dielectric from the center
conductor.
Install the fully assembled PL259 onto the center conductor and over the 88
tape.
The back of the PL259 body should rest on the fanned out shield.
Solder the center conductor.
Fan out the shield and cut it to 1/4" long and fold over the back of the
PL259.
Solder the shield all the way around to the back of the PL259 body.
While the back is still hot wrap 2 turns of 88 tape around the soldered
shield
to seal it good.
I use a Weller D550 soldering gun for this process
Now you can enjoy a well soldered shielded PL259! I have NEVER had one fail!
There may be a small impedance bump that you might be able to see at VHF
caused
by this method vs. soldering through the holes, but the N4AR method
guarantees a
well soldered shield which is much more important to me.
73!
Tim K3LR
http://www.k3lr.com
Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
> Rob Atkinson, K5UJ wrote:
> >You'll probably get 50 responses as everyone has their own way of doing
> >this.
>
> You're so right :-)
>
> 1. Someone wrote me with a clever and simple idea: file across the holes
> using a 1/4-in round file, until the metal has been reduced to a thin
> edge. This will be much easier to solder, and will also remove any
> hard-to-solder plating.
>
> 2. An electric hot air gun (paint stripper) is probably cheaper than a
> gas torch, and almost certainly cheaper than a monster iron.
>
> 3. Don't try to solder with the torch or hot-air gun. Use it only to
> boost the temperature of the plug body, until your small iron can melt
> the solder easily.
>
> --
> 73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
> http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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> TowerTalk@contesting.com
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