On 2/22/2014 12:31 PM, Bryan Swadener wrote:
That was well thought-out, Patrick. More thoughts:
The model name is Super HAWG, model number 1680-20.
See http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20
It doesn't just provide for a second hand grip; comes with a
second hand grip handle, which I use. I've accidentally hit
the tower's UP limiters and had the drill try to rotate on me.
Just letting go of the drill (and trigger) works for me. I'd rather
have that, than stretch (or break) the tower's wirerope cable.
Also, be aware that, since the chuck and motor output shaft
are RH threaded and secured with a 1/4"-20 LH sockethead
lock screw, it won't supply a lot of CCW torque w/o breaking the
screw. But, it seems stout enough to lower my TX-472.
It's worth finding and keeping a spare lock screw.
vy 73,
Bryan WA7PRC
--------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 09:09:04 -0600
From: Patrick NJ5G
To: towertalk reflector
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Drill motor
I do not have the model touted for tower raising (Super Hog)
but it is
reasonable to assume in the progression of hole
Shooter to Hole Hog to
Super Hog that the torque capable of being produced
escalates with
increasing drill motor size. I don't argue against
using the Super Hog
and would use one myself if the situation warranted it
but... be
prepared, it is altogether likely you will not be able to
hand hold it
if the tower jams. The torque will spike and if the
chuck becomes
stationary the drill motor itself will in fact rotate with
or without
your body parts clinging to it. These drills have provision
for a second
hand grip (removable) which you should use. You should think
ahead in
positioning your hands and your body so that if the tower
should jam
causingt the drill itself to rotate you won't be
injured. These tools
are powerful and capable of doing you grievous harm if you
are unwary.
An additional thought as virtually all of these big drill motors have
enough torque to do serious bodily harm. I've mentioned the electrician
who got the cord wrapped around his thumb and lost the thumb. I doubt I
have to describe how he lost the thumb.
Always and I have to emphasize the "always" hold the trigger with one
finger in such a position that should the bit bind, the motor will
rotate away from that finger. Never use the latch to hold the trigger
in. That works fine for small motors, but is dangerous on the larger
one. When I worked in the shop, oh so many years ago, the first
operation with large drill motors was to remove that lock button so it
could not be used even accidentally. That button had to be removed and
then verified (and recorded) that the button had been removed. It's a
good idea if you have the knowledge, to remove that button.
That extra handle gives you a good hold, but if the drill is locked on
and binds, many of them are quite capable of breaking arms and legs as
well as doing other major and gruesome damage and I do mean gruesome!
Those old tools are probably a lot more rugged than the ones built today.
Want a chuckle? I traded a home built Heathkit H-8
computer and monitor
to a tool store owner for the Sawzall, Hole Shooter, and a
worm drive
Skill saw around 1980-82. All these tools are still
working perfectly.
The computer, if working, would at best be a historical
curiosity.
and probably worth a lot of money
I had a museum want my Ohio Scientific C2-8P (1978 or 79) and give me
one whale of a write off. I still have it.
73 and be careful,
Roger (K8RI)
Patrick NJ5G
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
|