It is typical for the loss on the CCS (Copper Clad Steel) center conductor RG6 cables to be a bit higher than you'd expect at the low frequencies, but it's usually not super significant. For example,
I would think reviewing recorded audio to be OK. I think that would be making use of a valid new technology, akin to the use of a new preamp or better antenna. IMHO, a valid contact is completed when
To add to what Gerry mentioned about the legal limit voltages, I would suspect the tape may be more prone to arcing than a round wire due to the concentrated charges at the "sharp" edges being more p
There is a test used when installing this cable commercially called "PowerSum NEXT". If you look that up you should be able to get an idea of the coupling between pairs. If I remember correctly it's
You are likely correct. I have not reviewed the spec in some time, but it most likely is an average value over the LAN-used spectral range (likely in the high-kHz region up to maybe 100MHz or so). It
It would be best to do a test fit of the connectors before buying a significant quantity. IME, the RG6 from the "real" manufacturers (Commscope, Belden, etc.) tends to fit the connectors from the "re
I've found that the "RoHS-compliant" lead-free solders, which are a tin/copper/silver alloy tend to hold up better outdoors than the usual tin/lead alloys. The lead-free stuff is also pretty easy to
It would be easy to check if an attenuator is resistive or capacitive by checking if it will pass any DC. If the attenuator is all resistive you should be able to measure a low (relatively, i.e. not
Perhaps a goofy thought, but if you don't want to go the motorized route you could try what the electric utilities like to do with their pole-top switches: run a rod from the device down to a ground
[snip] I've I have had a similar complaint with such connectors. I especially have a problem with the typical poor-quality threads and nuts that break when tightened. I have found two solutions: 1 -
I can still get bare wire from my local telecom wire supply house. I've been using 18awg bare copper for radials for several years as it's cheap and seems to hold up OK over time. The only downside i
Heh, been there, done that ;-) Handy design data from the telecom/utility industry: 10 foot clearance (minimum) over finished grade where vehicular traffic is not expected. 17 foot clearance (minimum
Have you tried sealing the innards with a potting compound? Repair and modifications become pretty much impossible after doing that, but it does tend to keep the moisture out. Myself, I use small ABS
I've never personally tried a balloon or kite, but I would suspect with either elevated radials might be a problem due to the extra weight. You could, I suppose, use a few mast sections to hold up th
I am curious why you specify "#18 Teflon" wire for the BOG wire you list about 1/2 way down the page. Black polyethylene insulated wire would hold up a lot better over time and would be far cheaper,
I wouldn't think the loop would make much difference if you keep it as straight as possible. A simpler solution would be to wrap some solid copper wire around the antenna wire and solder it to make a
Doubtful the ground rod would improve performance any. I wouldn't want to run the setup without an earth ground for safety though (lightning). You could do that at the antenna, but then you should al
I think most people are actually building their K9AY loops to use 75 ohm coax these days as that is the standard "receive coax". The only change you need to make is the winding of the isolation/match
I am curious if anyone has actually measured this over a range of frequencies. Afaik, the "it's lossy when wet" is based on a model that I've seen some say overstates the loss for a wet window line.
This will be a bit tricky to explain in text, but I'll give it a shot. You need to use a 3-level strip for SNS connectors. You need to have the center conductor exposed for maybe 3/8" or so to create