This will be a bit tricky to explain in text, but I'll give it a shot.
You need to use a 3-level strip for SNS connectors. You need to have the
center conductor exposed for maybe 3/8" or so to create the "pin" in the
connector. You need about 1/8" or a bit less of dielectric only without
braid, then about 1/4" of exposed braid. Note that the braid can NOT go
to the end of the dielectric.
I like to slide the plastic ring onto the cable before stripping. You
can do it after, but then the braid tends to get in the way and if it's
a flooded cable it's messier.
After stripping, fold the braid back over the plastic ring. The braid
should stop a little bit before the ramp/ridge that retains the O ring.
Make sure the braid doesn't overlap the ridge or the o-ring -- if it
does you won't be able to get the ring to snap into place in the
connector body. Ideally you want the braid straightened out like you
would do for an N connector, but it's not super critical as long as it
will fit into the connector body in the last step without jamming.
Make sure to strip the foil back to the level of the braid after the
braid has been folded back over the plastic ring. If the innermost foil
(in the case of tri- or quad-shield cable) is bonded to the dielectric
then you can leave it in place, but I always check to make sure my
stripper hasn't left a little swirl of foil on the end after cutting.
That "swirl" can short the center conductor to the shield.
After the above, the connector body should push onto the cable without
trouble. Sometimes a little bit of twisting will help to seat the
connector body fully, but be careful not to twist the braid into a
spiral. Push it on until it stops, at which point the dielectric should
be flush with the bottom of the threaded part of the connector body.
Once the connector body is fully on the cable, use the tool to compress
the plastic ring into the connector body until it snaps into place. Make
sure the O ring doesn't pop out from around the circumference of the
connector.
I usually trim the center conductor as a last step since I tend to
always make it a little too long when I initially strip the cable.
Note that the above is for the SNS/Augat/Thomas and Betts style
connectors. The other kind of "SNS" connectors where the plastic ring
and connector body are one piece are a little different and I don't have
experience with those.
-Bill
>
> I figure someone here knows the answer, I want to put better
> connectors on my flooded RG-6/U coax going to my Hi-Z triangular
> assembly. I bought a used tool like this off fleabay
> http://tinyurl.com/7vr5kvn and 100 connectors (It's a long life...)
>
> You put the coax in the stripper and two blades cut the jacket,
> removing just the right amount of vinyl and simultaneously cutting
> down to the center wire at the right place. Then you put the
> connector with the coax in it ready to be compressed and you squeeze
> and it locks the connector.
>
> Nice, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the snap-n-seal
> connector mounted on the coax. I've tried slipping the coax in but
> the inner sleeve on the connector won't go under the braid or vinyl,
> trying to tap it into place is futile.
>
> Any suggestions how to get the coax in the connector properly? I'd
> like to get this finished before the snow hits.
> _______________________________________________
> UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
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UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
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