Larry, A google search gave me: http://www.pointswestmarketing.com/brake.htm It appears the main difference between the K1550 and the KX1550 is gear plating and a two speed ratchet. John KE7JGB Larry
I can address the placement of the rebar cage. The normal method is to put the cage on top of concrete blocks. Those blocks will raise the cage above the bottom of the hole and remain in place as you
I saw that Roger, K8RI, used heat shrink tubing with "sticky goo" inside for his coax connections. I've got a supply of that from my days at the local utility. We used it for PERMANENT underground sp
I've just put up a used TX-472 tower. I'll be putting a SteppIR antenna on it plus a 2M/440 omni and an 80 Meter inverted Vee wire antenna. I live at the top of the hill and we occasionally get some
I just installed a TX-472 at my QTH. It called for a hole 4' x 4' x 7' deep. I used my Kubota BX23 tractor and backhoe to dig down to 5 1/2' feet. That was the deepest the backhoe would dig and I wen
I've just installed a used TX-472 tower here. So far, I have a 2M/440 omni and an inverted V 80 meter wire antenna on it. A couple days ago I attempted to lower it in anticipation of installing my ne
I just installed a Yaesu G-1000DXA rotor on my tower and the instructions specifically said to pin the mast to the rotor. They even supplied the bolt. John KE7JGB ____________________________________
Bob, That's an excellent price, especially with the rebar. Believe me, you'd spend a lot more than that for the chiropractor if you mixed it yourself. John KE7JGB ____________________________________
Doug I'm retired from a large public electric utility and a lot of our safety meetings had films of people doing stupid things. I'd much rather learn from someone else's mistakes than make my own...
If your local electric utility has a "surplus" or "salvage" sales department you could probably find what you want there. I retired from Seattle City Light and I know they have lots of stuff like tha
Doug, I retired from the power industry and we quit using those a long time ago. When they're new it's safe to use them but, as age and corrosion sets in, they rust at the point where they screw into
I'm having trouble imagining how to ship or mail the concrete base..... ;-) John KE7JGB _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk maili
You can probably use a "mouse" and a shop vacuum to get the first lightweight pull string down the conduit. Use the lightweight string to pull a stronger pull rope. I've never pulled 500 feet but wit
I bonded a fired 30-06 brass onto the tip of the shaft. By filling it with lead shot I was able to add some needed weight to the arrow. I did manage to hit one tree dead center on the trunk one time.
Dennis, I use a worm gear hand operated winch on my TX472. What I did was remove the handle and, in place of the handle and nut, replace it with a "long" nut. I think they call them "coupler" nuts. I
Those screw-in steps aren't used anymore as far as I know. I retired from an Electric Utility and the story I was told was that the steps can rust through at the wood surface or just inside the wood.
I have a TX472 and I replaced the original winch with a worm gear. I use a Milwaukee Hole Hawg drill to run the tower up and down. BTW, I tried two other "lesser" drills and found them lacking in the
I've got the same tower and, if it was closer to me, I'd take him up on the offer. It's a great tower. After I got mine up a friend found a used tower in Arizona and had it shipped up here to Washing
Hardware store... grey electrical plastic conduit. A 10 foot x 1" stick will cost about $2.00. BTW, always put in at least one size bigger than you think you'll ever need. And, once the ditch is open
I'm KE7JA..... not KE7JGB anymore. Nor am I Chet, K7JA, although if I'm not careful how I pronounce "KE" it comes out "Kayeee" instead of "K...E..." If you use a vacuum a "mouse" can be sucked a long