On Jan 31, 2005, at 9:12 AM, MIKE GREENWAY wrote: I have read here before on the reaction of putting copper to galvanized metal causes a bad reaction. There were suggestions of putting stainless stee
On Feb 15, 2005, at 12:30 AM, Derek Cohn/WB0TUA wrote: Would I be better off adding wire to the antenna or having the ends higher in the air. I primarily operate 80, 40, 30, and 20 CW. Any advice? Fi
On Feb 15, 2005, at 1:04 AM, W. E. Bailey wrote: I would suggest that you think about shortening the length of your antenna (instead of lengthening it). I know that this sounds counter-intuitive, but
So, what we need is the special TowerTalk "My tubing is stuck" discount at Texas Towers.... Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -
I guess it depends on how much SOUP you are running.... Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ______________
Bad idea. The steel in the Brillo pads will have microscopic bits break off and embed themselves in the aluminum, causing pre-mature corrosion due to dissimilar metals. Instead, use Scotchbrite on Al
Is George a silent key? QRZ.com still lists W1GKK as assigned to a George De Grenier. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilb
Since my back went out, I've had some time to think about may antenna system. A brief foray into the CQ 160m contest convinced me I need to put up some kind of 160m antenna, rather than trying to loa
For a protective ground -- one that connects a network of ground rods -- Use solid copper wire -- and a large gauge at that. (I think 6 gauge is the minimum recommended) Either that, or copper strap.
Even a small tribander at 50 feet will give pretty reasonable performance. A tribander will cover 20-10m. Some units also have 40m capability, or you can look to stack the tribander with a 40m rotata
Is this practical? HBX only goes up to 56 feet -- unless you're talking VHF or possibly 10m monobanders, there may not be too much benefit in stacking beams at this height -- the lower antenna may be
Now there's an interesting idea -- have the lower antennas mounted on something like a hazer, so they can be raised or lowered as you change bands to always have the optimal stack spacing for a given
That doesn't look like Rohn tower -- what is it? Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 _____________________
But, isn't the C3 really a set of optimized two-element yagis co-located on the same boom? Isn't the effective boom length of the C3 substantially shorter than the overall length, at least on 15m and
I think it depends on the size of the antenna, and its configuration. With my bracketed tower and A3S, I find it much better to turn the antenna with the element ends into the wind. This produces muc
3 feet is too close to the ground to get accurate measurements. First, check all your measurements against the manual. The first time I put together my A3S, I got the director about 6 inches short on
I think I'll just put up a G5RV and CALL it a nine-circle antenna.... Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
And I bet you are STILL itching from that experience. I know I itch just hearing about it.... Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
How about loading the boom as a shortened dipole for 40/80m in a 3 element arrangement? You'd switch the DE out, and short the reflector and director to the boom and adjust to achieve resonance. It w
All this is true for homebuilt aircraft resins, which are necessarily room-temperature curing resins. Because of the relatively low cure temperatures, it is pretty easy to reach critical temperatures