All, I am building an EB-104 kit. My question is: What is the best way to attach a copper heat spreader to an aluminum heat sink? My plan is to lap the surfaces on a precision granite machinist block
Dan, Please send any replys to the list. I'm in just the same stage as you are with the EB-104. The large heat sink is not exactly flat and I was wondering if a layer or 2 of aluminum foil between th
There is no substitute for getting both pieces machined flat and finished with a low roughness surface. If they don't 'suck' like slip guages when you use a very thin film of heatsink compound, they'
Send to machinist for a surface job. Don't mess around. BOB DD 2 There is no substitute for getting both pieces machined flat and finished with a low roughness surface. If they don't 'suck' like slip
Machine shops charge set up time as well as actual machining, it could get expensive. One simple way to be sure a surface is flat is to lay a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat pane of glass. Use p
Round here I'd expect to get it done for about the price of 1 MRF150. My view is that's a good investment. Works well - the purist cabinet makers who want precision surfaces on planes and chisels swe
Interesting discussion. I bought a machinist setup granite a few years back. It will work well for this. It is not particularly large, about 12X18 inches and 4 inches thick. Sand paper and elbow grea
If it is an aluminum head sink, why not just plane it? As long as your using carbide or heat treated cutters, a regular benchtop planer should work fine (make many fine passes). I've never run a heat
As I recall making temperature measurements for a Heathkit FET amp it could not have air gap, even at the micro level, between the plates using the suggested thickness of copper. The finish had to b
I like the idea of trying as planer - although I shudder to think what my wife would do to me if I sent metal through her big thicknesser :-) Given the thickness of metal, I doubt there will be much
Can you remember the frequency where the problem occurs? Thanks, Steve _______________________________________________ Amps mailing list Amps@contesting.com http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listin
I agree with everything here, I just think that it's likely overkill to need to do the final sanding step. If you have a good planer, and are careful in the setup, the runout should be very minimal,
No, but anyone building a solid state amp should always look at the drain or collector with a scope on every band. It's particularly important to do this when the device is near the peak voltage lim
I totally agree, the heat spreaders need to be a pancake and copper usually is unless somebody bent it. The heat sink should be flat as this one in question is obviously warped. The copper edges can
There's always water cooling - solder some tubes onto the underside of the heat spreader (before you do the final flattening). No need for fancy pure water. I've always wanted to try soldering a larg
Hi guys, with all that talk about heat spreader to heatsink mounting here, I can't help but wonder about how nonsensical it is to make such an copper-to-aluminium sandwich! Why not make the entire he
Instead of doing an air copper sink, go water cooling. I do agree with everything you stated about cost, weight and thermal qualities. I don't agree so much with soldering, but you need to with water