Machine shops charge set up time as well as actual machining, it could get
expensive.
One simple way to be sure a surface is flat is to lay a sheet of wet/dry
sandpaper on a flat pane of glass. Use plenty of water and a back and forth
motion with moderate pressure. You may need another pair of hands.
I use this method on old warped carburetor bowls, aluminum timing covers,
etc for antique Ford flathead V8's that I rebuild. It also works great on
rotator housings.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Bonner" <rbonner@qro.com>
To: "'Amps Amps'" <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink
> Send to machinist for a surface job. Don't mess around.
> BOB DD
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Thompson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:11 AM
> To: amps@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink
>
>
>
> tjjapha@earthlink.net wrote:
>> Dan,
>> Please send any replys to the list. I'm in just the same stage as you
>> are
>> with the EB-104.
>> The large heat sink is not exactly flat and I was wondering if a layer or
> 2
>> of aluminum foil between the copper and the middle part of the heat sink
>> would help.
>
> There is no substitute for getting both pieces machined flat and
> finished with a low roughness surface. If they don't 'suck' like slip
> guages when you use a very thin film of heatsink compound, they're not
> flat enough.
>
> Anything else will put your expensive transistors at risk.
>
> Steve
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>
>
>
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