Amps
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink

To: <kg7hf@comcast.net>, <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink
From: "Tom W8JI" <w8ji@w8ji.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2007 20:10:15 -0400
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
> I would think that might be overkill, because when you 
> bolt the spreader to the heat sink, the two pieces are 
> going to conform to each other, in fact, they are going to 
> expand and contract as the heat is applied and dissipated 
> anyway.


As I recall making temperature measurements for a Heathkit 
FET amp it could not have air gap, even at the micro level, 
between the plates using the suggested thickness of copper. 
The finish had to be pretty good.

One solution is to use a really thick copper spreader. I 
think I doubled it. If it bows up a little or if it has 
small surface irregularities (like milling lines) there will 
still be plenty of area along edges for transfer to the 
aluminum. If you thicken up the copper then the only real 
critical area is the surface below each FET.

The big problem areas are near where the copper is sheered. 
Any bend or burr there can hold the copper off the aluminum 
or even warp the whole piece. Better be sure they saw it and 
not sheer it, or be prepared to do some machine work.

By the way, the FET's will have a tendency to blow up on 
higher bands using Motorola's original layout.... especially 
if you let the drain voltage exceed 55 volts. Be sure to 
look at the drains right at the FET's with a scope and watch 
the peak voltage!!! The boards I played with had a nasty 
third harmonic resonance that created some pretty high 
voltages.

73 Tom





_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>