Interesting discussion. I bought a machinist setup granite a few years
back. It will work well for this. It is not particularly large, about
12X18 inches and 4 inches thick. Sand paper and elbow grease (as opposed
to thermal grease) should do a good job. If I start with 220 or so grit
I should be able to see when the full surface has been worked. Then it
is a matter of work down a few grades.
(I once had a set of gage blocks that were so well surfaced that if I
mated them together by sliding the surfaces along an edge I could then
pull one slowly away and it would pull the second along.)
- Dan
Steve Thompson wrote:
> jeremy-ca wrote:
>
>> Machine shops charge set up time as well as actual machining, it could get
>> expensive.
>>
>
> Round here I'd expect to get it done for about the price of 1 MRF150. My
> view is that's a good investment.
>
>
>> One simple way to be sure a surface is flat is to lay a sheet of wet/dry
>> sandpaper on a flat pane of glass. Use plenty of water and a back and forth
>> motion with moderate pressure. You may need another pair of hands.
>>
>
> Works well - the purist cabinet makers who want precision surfaces on
> planes and chisels swear by 1" float glass. I used mirrored glass on
> laminate finish kitchen worktop. The mirroring shows if the glass
> surface is not flat.
>
>> I use this method on old warped carburetor bowls, aluminum timing covers,
>> etc for antique Ford flathead V8's that I rebuild. It also works great on
>> rotator housings.
>>
>
> The only downside is the large surface area of heatsinks if there's any
> appreciable metal to remove. It took a lot of beer to get a jack plane
> finished :-)
>
> Steve
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