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Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink

Subject: Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink
From: Dan Sawyer <dansawyer@earthlink.net>
Reply-to: dansawyer@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 16:52:29 -0700
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Interesting discussion. I bought a machinist setup granite a few years 
back. It will work well for this. It is not particularly large, about 
12X18 inches and 4 inches thick. Sand paper and elbow grease (as opposed 
to thermal grease) should do a good job. If I start with 220 or so grit 
I should be able to see when the full surface has been worked. Then it 
is a matter of work down a few grades.

(I once had a set of gage blocks that were so well surfaced that if I 
mated them together by sliding the surfaces along an edge I could then 
pull one slowly away and it would pull the second along.)

- Dan

Steve Thompson wrote:
> jeremy-ca wrote:
>   
>> Machine shops charge set up time as well as actual machining, it could get 
>> expensive.
>>     
>
> Round here I'd expect to get it done for about the price of 1 MRF150. My 
> view is that's a good investment.
>
>   
>> One simple way to be sure a surface is flat is to lay a sheet of wet/dry 
>> sandpaper on a flat pane of glass. Use plenty of water and a back and forth 
>> motion with moderate pressure. You may need another pair of hands.
>>     
>
> Works well - the purist cabinet makers who want precision surfaces on 
> planes and chisels swear by 1" float glass. I used mirrored glass on 
> laminate finish kitchen worktop. The mirroring shows if the glass 
> surface is not flat.
>   
>>  I use this method on old warped carburetor bowls, aluminum timing covers, 
>> etc for antique Ford flathead V8's that I rebuild. It also works great on 
>> rotator housings.
>>     
>
> The only downside is the large surface area of heatsinks if there's any 
> appreciable metal to remove. It took a lot of beer to get a jack plane 
> finished :-)
>
> Steve
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