I've noted the UST footing design for most/all their towers, and they specify a rebar cage with the vertical pieces set approximately 3" above the bottom of the footing. This is obviously a clumsy un
As a retired Chicago licensed contractor, I can speak with some practical knowledge. DO NOT allow rebar to contact the earth. Moisture will rust the bar in incredible time. Rust can expand and produc
How about suspending the rebar cage from a couple of 2 x 4's above the top of the form with some rebar ties? Or the paving stones / bricks under the cage .. any of these should work! Shouldn't there
Many thanks to all who replied to my query. They all make very good sense and I'll take them to heart when I get the hole dug. That is to say I followed and agree with most of the suggestions, A-l-l
A rebar cage sitting on gravel at the base of the hole is the same as sitting on the dirt. Moisture, seepage, that's what we want to protect the rebar from. Gravel is suggested for tubular tower base
Bob, Not a Civil Engineer by any stretch of the imagination but one of the reasons for not having the rebar breach the concrete is rust. That exposed end will make a super-highway for rust and assumi
Bob: As others will undoubtedly tell you, don't let the rebar ends sit directly on dirt. Moisture will corrode the ends and eventually propagate up into the concrete, defeating the purpose of the reb
Bob How bout you set the rebar on chairs then pour it all at once. JOE KG4VBR To: <towertalk@contesting.com> JOE PATRICK SENIOR PLUMBING/MECHANICAL INSPECTOR CITY OF BOYNTON BEACH
Ok Bob They make a fixture just for the purpose of holding the rebar up off the dirt,or stone in your case.They come in different sizes,are made from heavy wire,and look like a small chair with no ba