Hi TT'ers, I was putting together my Hygain Ex 14 today and found something I hadn't expected. When tightening up the hose clamps to secure the ends of the elements (7/16") that regardless of how har
Force 12 typically uses 3 pop rivets at a joint. The C3S used 1/8th inch rivets spaced about one inch on center. My 40M elements also used the 1/8th inch rivets but some of the 80M rotating dipole I
Kathy, Forget what that says ... use Noalox on clean element pieces where they telescope into each other. Turn the 'clamp' so tightening the screw on it will close the saw-slot gap in the outer tubin
Kathy, Pop rivets work very well. That is what I would recommend at every joint - even in addition to the hose clamps. Stan, K5GO Sent from Stan's IPhone _____________________________________________
If you use the pop rivets there is no reason left for the hose clamps...Unless they made the mistake of sawing the outer element, or they fit too loose. Those screws used to hold the elements togethe
I like rivets. But I think there's a different issue here. Rivets are nice for telescoping straight tubes that fit nicely within each other. And in fact I just ordered a bunch of Avex rivets from Ai
Kathy, Pop rivets work very well. That is what I would recommend at every joint - even in addition to the hose clamps. Stan, K5GO industrial supply place. What you don't want is the rivets that have
As do I, but they will also work with properly swaged and fitted elements. I think you will find the piece that fits into the tool (I've forgotten the name of it) has barbed like edges, almost like a
I may be missing something here, but when I make an element, if the clamp doesn't quite firm up the joint I just get the hack saw out and cut another slot, 90 degrees around the circumfrence from the
Absolutely! Don N8DE _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@contesting.com http://lists.contesting.com/mailma
Yes, this is by far the easiest and a very effective method. I find it is easier to cut the slots opposing each other (180 degrees) and at a depth just slightly larger than the width of the SS hose c
Or, widen the existing slot a bit. Takes only one cut instead of two, preserves strength, less elbow stress. A Dremel tool works great for this. 73, Gerald K5GW In a message dated 9/23/2010 8:50:45 A
As do I, but they will also work with properly swaged and fitted elements. I think you will find the piece that fits into the tool (I've forgotten the name of it) has barbed like edges, almost like a
Did you check the gap on the slotted tubing to see that it is not completely collapsed? It is possible after cleaning the joints, you increased the clearance slightly and now it will no longer clamp
Agreed, if you are building one. Actually the vortex shedding still exists, but without the major change in diameter and short overlap the element is no longer subject to the effects of the vortex sh
And another thing... clean up and lubricate the hose clamp. You might also have to bend the end of the band that is secured in the screw mechanism so that it doesn't stop the progress of the screw as