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Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends

To: "TowerTalk" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
From: "Larry" <lknain@nc.rr.com>
Reply-to: Larry <w6nws@arrl.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:31:25 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Force 12 typically uses 3 pop rivets at a joint. The C3S used 1/8th inch rivets 
spaced about
one inch on center. My 40M elements also used the 1/8th inch rivets but some of 
the 80M
rotating dipole I believe were 3/16th inch rivets. The element to boom rivets 
were 3/16th inch.

I forget offhand how the KT36XA bolts were done. Some of the bolts for some 
things were at
least a pair at 90 degrees. I'm not sure where the instructions are at the 
moment to check.
(M2 always put in the anti-seize goop on both the KT34XA and KT36XA. I also 
have a 4 el
40/30 beam from them that came with the goop.)

I had some TET beams years ago that were put together with stainless steel 
screws. They
seemed to work well although they were somewhat easy to strip the threads they 
created.
I didn't have a joint failures over many years using the screws. They were 
quite small and
short screws.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

73, Larry  W6NWS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Kathy Bookmiller 
  To: Larry 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 9:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends


        Thanks for input Larry. I'll use the no seize compound, regardless of 
what they say! plus the fasteners-so far 4 replies and all say to use one or 
the other, as often the clamps don't do the job.
        73,
        Kathy

        --- On Thu, 9/23/10, Larry <lknain@nc.rr.com> wrote:


          From: Larry <lknain@nc.rr.com>
          Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
          To: "Kathy Bookmiller" <wb2aio@yahoo.com>
          Date: Thursday, September 23, 2010, 1:02 AM


          Force 12 uses pop rivets. They generally seem to hold fairly well. 
The only issue I had with them
          was on a element to boom mounting for a 40M antenna where one element 
elongated the rivet
          holes over about 7 years. Of course, it is not as easy to readjust 
elements that have pop rivets. You
          would need to drill them out and hope that holes line up after 
adjustment and that you don't need
          to make too many adjustments. The rivets worked well on a Force 12 
C3S elements.

          M2 uses stainless steel bolts and nuts for the most part. The bolt 
goes all the way through the element
          and uses Nylock style nuts for KT36XA I have. Same issues with 
adjustments as with pop rivets.

          Personally I use the anti-seize goop. I have had elements seize up 
over time without the goop and
          it is usually impossible to separate the pieces. Small price to pay 
to put the goop on.

          73, Larry  W6NWS
          ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kathy Bookmiller" 
<wb2aio@yahoo.com>
          To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
          Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 8:48 PM
          Subject: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends


          > Hi TT'ers,
          > I was putting together my Hygain Ex 14 today and found something I 
hadn't expected. When tightening up the hose clamps to secure the ends of the 
elements (7/16") that regardless of how hard I cranked the clamps, the tips 
were still loose enough that they could easily be pulled out-maybe 10# of 
pressure! Now I don't want to get this up in the air and find that with the 
wind vibration that they'll move in or out.
          > My question is what would be a more permanent way to secure 
them-I'm thinking along the lines of aluminum pop rivets or a zip screw or two. 
The pop rivets would be aluminum and the zip screws are steel (zip screws is 
what I call them, I've heard them called other things. They are short self 
taping screws used in duct work in the HVAC industry)
          > Also, I was surprised to see that Hygain no longer wants one to use 
a mating compound on where the elements slide together, but says the raw 
aluminum on aluminum is sufficient. I remember years ago they used to include a 
small canister of the paste-which I still have left from prior antennas from 
them.
          > This antenna was used, maybe ten years old, and whatever compound 
the previous owner used had dried into a hard crystalline compound that made 
taking the antenna apart very difficult. At this point I almost wished I had 
left it alone but I completely dissembled it and cleaned out all the elements 
and traps which were packed with dead insect debris, and I do mean packed!
          > It is only the ends of elements that have this looseness problem, 
the other sections seem to clamp up tight enough.
          > Thoughts?,
          > Kathy
          > 
          > 
          > 
          > 
          > _______________________________________________
          > 
          > 
          > 
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          > TowerTalk mailing list
          > TowerTalk@contesting.com
          > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
          > 


       

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