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[AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen

To: <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
From: billydeanward@hotmail.com (Billy Ward)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 00:29:18 -0000
Here is the link to my new pc board site but there is no information there 
as of yet.  Any critique will be appreciated--I need ideas as to what else 
to include.

http://pcboards.topcities.com/home.html

Billy Dean Ward


>From: "carl seyersdahl" <carlseye@tampabay.rr.com>
>To: "Billy Ward" <billydeanward@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
To: <amps@contesting.com>
>Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 19:59:03 -0400
>
>Billy: I just read your msg. on h2o2, etc. I went and looked at a bottle of
>the stuff in the medicine cabinet, and it isn't marked as to the % of
>strength. It's from Publix supermarket here locally. At least now I know
>what to look for or ask for. I wasn't aware of the the stuff being diluted,
>altho I guess I should. I seem to remember something about that stuff when 
>I
>was younger(long time ago!!!)
>    add me to your list of interested people!!!  73
>    carl / kz5ca
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Billy Ward" <billydeanward@hotmail.com>
>To: <amps@contesting.com>
>Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 7:30 PM
>Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
>
>
> >
> > I have received a LOT of personal email from those that are interested 
>in
> > making quality pc boards "in the kitchen" and "the back yard". As a
>result,
> > I am in the process of starting a website dedicated to that cause and 
>will
> > most likely be offering some of the necessary "ingredients". I doubt 
>that
>I
> > will offer the acid and the H2O2 because of the problems associated with
> > shipping chemicals.
> >
> > Most Of the questions have been about these two products.  The H2O2 
>should
> > be as strong as you can get. I use 50% when I can get it. For those of 
>you
> > in the larger cities--one source was from a company that manufactures
>faded
> > jeans.  If you will contact a chemical company in your area, you can
>usually
> > presuade them to give you one of their customers that buys in volumne so
> > that you may go to them and convince them to sell you a small quantity.
>The
> > beauty shops have atleast 30% which will work but at a slower rate.
> >
> > The HCL is the common muratic acid that you get at building supply 
>stores
>or
> > swimming pool supplies.
> >
> > I have a site now for this but it has no information on it. I will getup 
>a
> > page or two and post the URL.
> >
> > Billy Dean Ward
> >
> > Billy Dean Ward
> >
> >
> > >From: "Mike Baker" <k7dd@qwest.net>
> > >To: "Billy Ward" <billydeanward@hotmail.com>
> > >Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
To: <amps@contesting.com>
> > >Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 08:05:13 -0700
> > >
> > >Hello Billy,
> > >     Well, add my name to the list of folks interested in your method.  
>I
> > >haven't done PC boards in years because I hated the BS or waiting for 
>the
> > >board to etch or having it clean off the board because the resist 
>wasn't
> > >all that good, etc.  If I could make professional looking boards in my
>back
> > >yard I would be interested.
> > >     BTW, I know where to get the Acid (pool acid) locally but H2O2 
>that
> > >you get at the drug store is only 1 or 2 percent at most.  Even the 
>type
> > >use by hair dressers is only maybe 5% and high percentage stuff is 
>toxic
> > >and dangerous (the germans used it as the oxidizer in the ME262 rocket
> > >plane in WW2 !! ) so please clairfy if you will.
> > >     Thanks in advance,
> > >Mike Baker  K7DD
> > >k7dd@qwest.net
> > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > >   From: Billy Ward
> > >   To: amps@contesting.com
> > >   Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 4:04 PM
> > >   Subject: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
> > >
> > >
> > >   Greetings Carl,
> > >
> > >   It would probably take over an hour to author a letter telling 
>exactly
> > >how to do the silkscreen method of making PC boards.  However, if there
>are
> > >enough in the group that would be interested in learning how, I could
>take
> > >the time to write about it Many years ago, I did a demo for a Ham Radio
> > >Club where I started with the tape-up layout and produced a finished
>etched
> > >and cleaned ready-to-use 4" X 6" board in 16 minutes flat.
> > >
> > >   I am planning a website devoted to that task in the near 
>furture--say
>by
> > >Fall.  At that time, I am going to be offering all of the supplys
>necessary
> > >for the job. Interest shown by this group might be somewhat of a 
>measure
>of
> > >whether I should continue with my plans.
> > >
> > >   I will tell you that the ferric chloride method is something that 
>you
> > >will throw rocks at when you learn about the etchant that I use.  It 
>has
>a
> > >couple of requirements that must be strictly adherred to and other than
> > >that it is superior to any methods that I have come across:
> > >
> > >   It must be well ventilated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> > >   It must not get too hot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> > >
> > >   The following solution requires NO heating, NO bubbling, No 
>agitation!
> > >
> > >   1-part H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)
> > >   1-part Muratic acid (Hydrochloric Acid)
> > >   8-parts H2O (water)
> > >
> > >   The boards are suspended in the solution and the reaction causes a
> > >thermogenic reaction and heats the solution.  It must not get above 155 
>F
> > >or it will boil out of the etching tank--even if it is tall.  Adding a
>cup
> > >of Amonium Hydroxide will raise the danger point to about 187 F which 
>is
> > >easier to work with.
> > >
> > >   But if you get your hands in the solution a transdermal  thing will
> > >happen and eventually you will have Amonium
> > >   Chloride (from the Amonium Hydroxide reacted with Hydrochloric Acid)
> > >get into your urine and you'll flunk a U/A for methamphetamine.
> > >
> > >   In a fresh solution that used gallons as the measurements=10 gallons
> > >total, I could etch 24 4" X 6" single-sided, 2-OZ
> > >   boards in 3 minutes and 20 seconds.
> > >
> > >   To refresh the solution, add H202!
> > >
> > >   Billy Dean Ward
> > >
> > >     ----- Original Message -----
> > >     From: carl seyersdahl
> > >     Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 12:21 PM
> > >     To: Billy Ward; amps@contesting.com
> > >     Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making tubes
> > >
> > >     I'm not exactly crazy about making my own tubes, but I do like to
>make
> > >a pc board now and then. Can you tell me where I can get info on the
> > >'silkscreen " method making pc boards. It would likely be a big
>improvement
> > >over what I've been doing with a magic marker and ferric chloride. 
>thanks
> > >       carl / kz5ca
> > >       ----- Original Message -----
> > >       From: Billy Ward
> > >       To: amps@contesting.com
> > >       Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 2:06 PM
> > >       Subject: [AMPS] Making tubes
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >       Greetings Group,
> > >
> > >       I will ask this question at the chance of being made to look
> > >ignorant!
> > >
> > >       With the high price of tubes, I wonder if anyone has ever
>invisioned
> > >a homebrew project to actually make the tube from scratch?  I know that
>it
> > >would be a little more than the average ham is used to working with but
>why
> > >could we not use something such as stainless steel tubing and come up
>with
> > >a decent power transmitting tube.  After all, someone once did that!
> > >
> > >       We all know approximately what is needed and some of the group, 
>I
>am
> > >sure, may have worked for places such as Eimac etc. and have a lot of
> > >knowledge of what goes into such a task.
> > >
> > >       Sometimes things like this is MUCH more difficult than meets the
>eye
> > >and on the other hand, some things are dirt simple and just appear to 
>be
> > >difficult.  Like making pc boards from scratch--some would not think of
>it
> > >and others like me can turn one out from drawing to board in 30-45
>minutes
> > >using the silk-screen method at the kitchen sink.
> > >
> > >       Billy Dean Ward
> > >
> > >
> >
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