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In a message dated 9/28/01 10:30:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, w8ji@akorn.net
writes:
> Just don't fall into the trap that one person does, and say that all
> high-power bleeders or equalizers are "bad" and replace them.
>
> The resistor does not make the capacitor heat up, unless the
> ventilation is poorly planned around the resistor. The correct cure
> would be to improve ventilation or move the resistors further
> away...not to use insufficient resistance as one person always
> suggests.
>
> It sounds like your Henry is OK in that regard. Just check them
> and be sure they are within tolerance. The only drawback of a wire
> wound resistor is any slight nick or scrape (such as bumping the
> resistor with a screwdriver can open a wire inside the resistor if it is
> a high resistance resistor (wound with many turns of small wire).
>
> If you do NOT have one or more off-value resistors (or a capacitor in
> backwards), then you have a bad capacitor. I have receiver batches
> of capacitors that were incorrectly manufactured.
>
> By the way, if it made muted "popping" noises now you might need
> to change the capacitors again because that noise (when it comes
> from a capacitor) is when the dielectric inside a capacitor punches
> a hole in the insulating oxide.
>
I do think the Henry is poorly ventilated, just because of the cabinetry. I'm
sure it's RF-tight though. Additional fans make up the difference. I'll start
by testing all the resistors. I guess I failed to mention that there is a
wirewound 25 ohm, 25W unit with a diode and cap to ground on the B- side of
things, used as a, dare I say or guess, glitch resistor? It is vitreous
enamel, or I should say was. Virtually all of it has cracked off at this
point. I'll be testing that one too.
I was unfortunately aware that the sound was probably the end for the cap or
caps. The sound is not muted though, it's a resonant clink, much akin to
tapping the can of the cap with something hard. Regardless, sounds from caps
are never good!
Thanks again all.
73, Mark
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 9/28/01
10:30:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, w8ji@akorn.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT:
5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Just don't fall into the trap that
one person does, and say that all
<BR>high-power bleeders or equalizers are "bad" and replace them.
<BR>
<BR>The resistor does not make the capacitor heat up, unless the
<BR>ventilation is poorly planned around the resistor. The correct cure
<BR>would be to improve ventilation or move the resistors further
<BR>away...not to use insufficient resistance as one person always
<BR>suggests.
<BR>
<BR>It sounds like your Henry is OK in that regard. Just check them
<BR>and be sure they are within tolerance. The only drawback of a wire
<BR>wound resistor is any slight nick or scrape (such as bumping the
<BR>resistor with a screwdriver can open a wire inside the resistor if it is
<BR>a high resistance resistor (wound with many turns of small wire).
<BR>
<BR>If you do NOT have one or more off-value resistors (or a capacitor in
<BR>backwards), then you have a bad capacitor. I have receiver batches
<BR>of capacitors that were incorrectly manufactured.
<BR>
<BR>By the way, if it made muted "popping" noises now you might need
<BR>to change the capacitors again because that noise (when it comes
<BR>from a capacitor) is when the dielectric inside a capacitor punches
<BR>a hole in the insulating oxide.
<BR> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>I do think the Henry is poorly ventilated, just because of the cabinetry.
I'm sure it's RF-tight though. Additional fans make up the difference. I'll
start by testing all the resistors. I guess I failed to mention that there is a
wirewound 25 ohm, 25W unit with a diode and cap to ground on the B- side of
things, used as a, dare I say or guess, glitch resistor? It is vitreous enamel,
or I should say was. Virtually all of it has cracked off at this point. I'll be
testing that one too.
<BR>
<BR>I was unfortunately aware that the sound was probably the end for the cap
or caps. The sound is not muted though, it's a resonant clink, much akin to
tapping the can of the cap with something hard. Regardless, sounds from caps
are never good!
<BR>
<BR>Thanks again all.
<BR>
<BR>73, Mark
<BR></FONT></HTML>
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