>----- Original Message -----
>From: "k7fm" <k7fm@teleport.com>
>To: <W0YR@aol.com>; <amps@contesting.com>
>Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 9:22 AM
>Subject: Re: [Amps] Use of Manual T/R Switches
>
>
>> The T/R switch can be a point of concern, as you pointed out. The problem
>> with a knife switch, however, is after the operator has had too much
>Corona.
>
>
>What I used to do was hang my feedlines down from the top of a plywood board
>nailed to the wall. The board was covered with thin copper foil. The shields
>were connected to the copper by wood screws.
>
>My main feeder from THE AMPLIFIER had a foot long braid, and it was screwed
>to the copper.
>
>I bent a hook in the center conductors of each cable, and would simply let
>gravity make the connection. To change feeders, I just lifted the coax and
>hooked it on another antenna line. If there was a poor connection, THE
>AMPLIFIER (as opposed to "amplifier") would weld the cables. To release them
>it only a sharp twist and a tug, or a ping with a small hammer.
Did the cables jump as they welded the connection? Second thought
forget that question, we don't want to go there again.
Still trying to understand
Humbly
Dale K9VUJ
>I was never able to get this system to work well on QSK, so I used a pair of
>10 watt 250 volt lightbulbs as a series limiter (they lit like flashbulbs,
>and doubled as a reminder the power was on) and a 6AL5 tube as a clamp for
>the receiver, followed by a 6J6 to make up for gain loss.
>
>I'm actually serious about this, I used this system for years as an antenna
>and TR switch. It worked quite well.
>
>73 Tom
>
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