Gurus,
I am persuaded the RF situation (of a completely enclosed tubeset) is
feasible.
I see that the ceramic body of the GS-35b must have some sort of cooling
as well, so I figured O-ring the grid-ring of the tube (where it is
commonly mounted anyway) and oil-submerge the entire top of the tube.
But what of the cathode which is now hanging in the fresh breeze below?
Just how much cooling does the cathode require? While I am tempted to
throw a muffin fan at the problem, why not oil-bath the entire tube? No
point fixing only 90% of the problem.
For a tube that is 1500W air cooled, 2000w water cooled, I wonder what
plate dissipation in totally-submersed forced-oil cooling.
To test the centrifugal pump, I thickened some water with cornflour
until about the consistency of transformer oil and gave it a run. Mess
everywhere!! So the pump works well. It's entirely brass inside, and
its specs are 120 watts, 15 meter head, and 25 litres a minute
unloaded. The pump runs with a quiet hum, but I'd like it rubber
mounted, and to switch on with the tube-tank above about 45degC.
The "radiator" is an automotive all-aluminium auto-transmission cooler,
about 350x170x20mm, mounted on the rear of the large cabinet. There is
room to sandwich two coolers, maybe even three.
Fan and cowl on this unknown at this point, but probably a very wide
low-pressure squirrel cage fan. Fan motor to be linear temperature
controlled.
Oil flow restrictor to be adjusted, so the oil spends adequate time in
the radiator to dump heat.
The fluid path will be entirely 12mm diameter.
There is little or no voltage gradient on the coolant lines, as the tube
tank is grounded steel.
The filter/drier will be a 3/8" refrigerant desiccant drier, with a
bypass solenoid for maximum flow during times of high heat load. (The
filter/drier is just a maintenance item - does not need to be in circuit
continuously.)
Any and all comments?
I'd greatly value your engagement.
Steve
ZL1BHD
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