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[Towertalk] Rohn 25G Bracketing

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [Towertalk] Rohn 25G Bracketing
From: aa4lr@arrl.net (Bill Coleman)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 23:55:48 -0400
On 10/2/02 2:21 PM, Jon Ogden at na9d@speakeasy.net wrote:

>Sure, but like everything with Rohn, it's not completely clear why you  need
>two brackets.  There is no spec given for a single bracket installation.

As a practical matter, if the top bracket is 15 feet or less above the 
ground, it is probably not necessary to have a second bracket, so long as 
the tower is part of the concrete pour.

Given the stiffness of Rohn 25 over such a short distance, a bracket 
below a 15 foot top bracket isn't going to see much, if any, force.

>Then the other funny thing in ALL their specs is why they say "Pinned bases
>must not be used." Yet they sell the BPC25G base plate and pier pins and
>they even have some drawings for pier pin bases!  Now, perhaps the term
>"Pinned bases" is something different.  In general what they show on the web
>is somewhat sketchy at best.

I think they mean that you can't used a pier pin in the bracketed case, 
but instead have to put the tower in the concrete pour.

--

I have a bracketed tower. Mine is 44 feet of tower, with 5.5 feet of mast 
above, holding a Cushcraft A3S and a few wires. Tower is bracketed to the 
house at 25.5 feet and 17 feet. 

I'm not a PE, but I was able to do some first-order calculations on the 
strength of the bracket for the 75 mph wind zone here in Gwinnett County.

By my calculations, the tower could hold up about 7 sq ft of antenna with 
JUST the lower bracket in 75 mph winds. The top bracket alone increases 
this to about 9.5 sq feet. I have no qualms about the 4.4 sq ft of the 
A3S.

Key is making sure the top bracket support won't pull out. I used six 
3/8" carriage bolts through the top plate of the wall (2 * 2x4). This 
ought to have a steel backing plate, but it doesn't. The top of the wall 
is connected to a sway brace of 6x10 lumber across to the front wall of 
the house, and I reinforced this junction. Theoretically, the forces of 
the tower should be coupled to both the rear, side and front walls of the 
house.

The lower bracket is 3/8" lag bolted into the rim joist for the joints on 
the second floor. Sub-optimal. I certainly would NOT recommend lag bolts 
for the TOP bracket. 

The second bracket does help. It prevents the tower from bending below 
the top bracket (eg, the wind blows the top part of the tower north, and 
the bottom part flexes south), which gives it more strength. It also acts 
as a redundant component, should part of the top bracket fail. (the ends 
of the bracket are attached to the tower with 1/4" threaded U-bolts)

My tower does not creak, squeak or otherwise make noise, even in high 
winds. There is a little bit of low-frequency vibration that transfers to 
the house when the gusts go above about 30 mph. It's virtually 
sub-audible. It doesn't keep me awake at night.

As for height above bracket, I wouldn't consider anything much above 25 
feet. Mine is 18.5 feet, with about 5 more feet of mast. Bottom line -- 
you gotta climb it, and Rohn 25 starts to wobble a lot as you get beyond 
about 15 feet. I couldn't imagine climbing 30 feet of unsupported Rohn 
25. 

--

Bottom line, I think you can do a bracketed tower safely, effectively and 
cheaply as compared to a guyed tower. You have to be willing to accept 
some compromises. The limiting factor is the height above the top 
bracket, the antenna size, and the wind zone.

If you are thinking of going with some super-sized antenna in the future, 
or want to be able to grow your antenna system, perhaps a bracketed tower 
isn't the best choice. Go guyed, or look at other freestanding tower 
systems. Using Rohn 45 will allow you a little more leeway in height, 
winds and antenna size -- but it has limits as well.

Good luck.



Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901


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