-------------- Original message --------------
From: Alan NV8A <nv8a@att.net>
> On 04/20/07 12:03 pm jcowens1@comcast.net wrote:
>
> > Dick (K5RR):
> >
> > I have had the same problem you are having with the stall upon raising the
> tower and have resorted to doing the same thing you do. If I briefly lower
> the
> tower and then switch to raising, it usually takes off and raises the tower.
> Once it is under way, it doesn't hesitate or stall the rest of the way up.
> There
> is friction between the various sections and they told me to use bees wax on
> the
> tower areas where there is abnormal friction. I bought some and put it on and
> it
> did help the situation.
>
> I don't have the docs. in front of me at the moment, but I thought they
> said to use automotive grease. They do NOT recommend automotive grease. They
> specifically recommended against using oil or lube, but recommend bees wax
> which is why I used it in the first place and it does help. Bees wax can be
> bought from a good hobby shop (used in floral aarrangements) and the block I
> bought for around $10 will last me a lifetime. Grease will collect dirt and
> only make the problem worse over time.
>
> > I guess it is kind of a tradeoff situation. You can't have an overkill on
> power to move the sections as that might put unreasonable stress on the
> cables
> and result in a breakage. Before I put the bees wax on the tower innter
> surfaces, it used to bind slightly towards the end of travel up. It is better
> with the bees wax.
> >
> > Regarding oil, I changed mine last year and I am pretty sure I used regular
> automobile differential oil (90 wt?). The Hub City (gearbox mfr) literature I
> have says GL-90 for temps between 15 and 60 DEGF, or GL-150 for temps between
> 50
> to 125 DEGF. It says to change it after every 100 hours of use. For me, that
> is
> about every 20 years. I chose GL90 because of the lower viscosity. I talk
> with
> Gary Smith at UST when I have questions (559)733-2438. He has been there a
> long
> time and seems to be the most knowledgeable.
>
> Again, I thought they said "gear oil." I know that differential oil
> could be different, but whether it's worse I don't know. Differential oil is
> gear oil that is designed to lubricate the gears in your automobile
> differential gear box.
>
> > By the way, you don't have to buy their replacement v-belt as a Dayco 4L350
> from Schucks Auto (or equiv) works just fine at about 1/5th of their price.
> These should be replaced periodically as you never want to have one of these
> come off or break. All of my expoeriences and information relate to my HDX
> 572
> MDPL which should be equivalent to yours in these areas
>
> Although a belt failure with a worm drive gearbox doesn't allow the
> tower to come crashing down. I am sure you are right about this. I didn't
> mean to suggest that a broken belt would cause runaway tower lowering. Belts
> that are worn or slipping should be replaced.
John Owens - N7TK>
> 73
>
> Alan NV8A
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