LPS 2 and 3 are both good and used a lot by the rigging and logging industry
out here in Oregon. However, I was told by a local fishing/crabbing fleet
rigger that LPS 3 has a wax resin element that if not fully worked in, say
on tower cable, can allow pockets of water to build. The rigger suggested
LPS 2 in lieu of LPS 3 when used around salt water because of the salt
content in our rain and ocean spray. He also suggested if using LPS 3 for
wire rope/cable to run a flame along the cable after LPS 3 application,
heating it just enough to ensure flow into all the wire strands.
Another similar product recommended a decade ago by our local major marine
supply/rigging and vessel repair facility is called Corrosion Block
(http://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html). I have been using it
for element tubing and even after 15 years I was able to easily pull element
pieces apart on a recent trap repair and as well undo bolts etc. Found it
had more staying power than some of the anti-seize I'd used. I carry a tube
of the Corrosion Block in my tool pouch along with my other tools.
Don W7WLL
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Thomson
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 9:18 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] USTower anchor bolts rusting
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 08:35:58 -0700
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
To: Chris <EZRhino@fastmovers.biz>, Jeff Draughn <n0ost99@gmail.com>
Cc: TowerTalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] USTower anchor bolts rusting
A big step up from WD40 for rust prevention is LPS 3, available spray or
liquid. Works well and easy to remove later.
Another fix I use is spray zinc "cold" galvanizing as I had to machine
some custom steel spacers under the base plate for leveling.
Grant KZ1W
## A325 galvanized anchor bolts should not be rusting at all. I say they
are defective.
There should be no rust on em at all, even after 15-20 years.
## WD-40 is just glorified kerosene, and will soon evaporate, esp in warm
wx..like in 2 days.
WD-40 is better suited for getting rusted bolts apart. Even then, the 50-50
mix of acetone
+ automatic transmission fluid cleans house, works better than any
product you can buy off the
shelf, like WD-40, PB blaster etc. Acetone is readily available at any
paint store.
## I have tried every type of zinc cold spray from every machine shop in
town, with mixed results.
Most of it would develop rust spots after just a few months, and that was
with clean, bare steel b4 spraying.
What works the best for zinc cold spray, was the Rustoleum brand, from the
local home depot. It not
only worked better, last forever, it was cheaper, and the Rustoleum spray
bombs were at least 2 inchs taller.
I used a lot of the rustoleum product on the underneath side of my 2010
mustang, where we had welded
Cm tubing braces into place. Spraying directly onto the welds...after
cleaning them 1st. Did the same procedure
for the brace in the trunk, same deal. It looks just like the day I sprayed
it on, and that was almost 5 yrs ago.
Also used it on some various ant projects..same results.
## But all the various cold sprays have a definite shelf life...so dont go
crazy buying it on sale in large qtys.
You also really have to shake the rattle can for a long time b4 you use it.
Jim VE7RF
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