It is one of three things
1) take a centerpunch and put a dimple in one of the flats, HARD. Goal is to
distort the nut so it won't unscrew
2) use the centerpunch to put a dimple in the surface the nut mounts against,
again, goal again, not unscrewing
3)Using centerpunch, whack where the threads of the bolt and nut meet, to
really distort both. This is most secure, but don't plan on reusing either
--
73 de KG2V
Charlie
> On Sep 16, 2018, at 2:12 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <richard@karlquist.com>
> wrote:
>
> The instruction sheet that came with my Rohn guy
> equalizer plates states:
>
> "Stake all nuts after assembly"
>
> The kit of parts includes bolts, regular hex
> nuts, and "PAL nuts". Assembly order is that
> the regular nut goes on first, then the PAL nut
> with the edge lip out. IE, the flat side of
> it faces the regular nut.
>
> Questions:
>
> Do I torque the regular nut nice and tight with
> a wrench, then install the PAL? Do I tighten
> the PAL nut finger tight, or gently tighten it
> just a little with a wrench. I have no experience
> with these PAL nuts, but they don't look like
> they would withstand much torque.
>
> Finally:
>
> What does "stake all nuts" refer to????
> I am imagining whacking them with a hammer or
> something ... but that can't be right?
>
> Note: the Rohn drawing is dated "1964" :-)
> Been licensed since 1965 and have never seen PAL nuts
> before.
>
> Rick N6RK
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