Will,
The sections will be put in series by the common rotor. Each of the 2
stators ends will be capacititor's end. The rotor and the frame will be
insulated and will work OK. Have done that.
73, Val LZ1VB
> The capacitors rotor has to go to ground, and the stator to the tank coil
to work. Generally, the rotor is connected through >frame ground via a
wiper. The stator is insulated. There's no way of increasing the voltage
unless the plates are spaced >further apart. If you series the sections by
using a jumper across the screws, you increase the capacitance, not cut it
in half. >You have to paralell them to do that and there's no way to do it.
To get less capacitance, or cut it in half plus raise the >voltage, remove
half the plates at every other plate. That will increase the air gap and the
voltage rating, plus cut the >capacitance of the section in half. Those
plates will come off as they're just pressed on.
The sections will be put in series by the common rotor. Each of the 2
stators ends will be capacititor's end. The rotor and the frame will be
insulated and will work OK. Have done that.
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 3/19/06 at 4:19 PM Scott Townley wrote:
>
> >I have a dual (split-stator) 20-100pF air cap, 0.040" gap (so ~1500V)
> >I need a single 15-50pF, 3000V for a tank tuning cap.
> >So is there any reason I can't simply series-connect the split stators
and
> >float the rotor? Obviously the rotor must be isolated from the chassis
> >now, and I won't get 20/2=10pF min due to frame effects, but I only need
> >15...anything I'm missing?
> >TIA,
> >
> >
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>
>
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