Paul,
I though about something similar. You could use a piece of thick flat stock,
say 1/8" thick, 1 inch wide, and about 5 inches long. On one end (about 3/4
inch from the end), drill a hole to fit over the threaded stud and slide the
bar back against the chuck jaws. The bar could be bent in an angle so it would
come back away from the work so you could hold it like a handle. Then you would
just put the rivet nut on the threaded stud and back against the flat metal
handle which would act as a stationary mandrel. Even here, a sintered bronze
washer, or a ball bearing thrust washer would be better so the chuck jaws
wouldn't dig into the steel flat handle when you apply forward pressure to hold
the nut from turning. I'm fully intending on coming up with a working design
and will share it with everyone when I get one that works really good.
Here's another idea about the threaded studs. Those cheap rivet guns that
Harbor Freight has uses several sizes of threaded studs, but on one end the
thread size is always the same, and has a left hand thread so when tightening
it wont back out. The other end has right hand threads, the same size of the
rivet-nut threads. A person then could turn an adapter in the lathe and use the
threaded studs. A thrust bearing of one size could be used this way also. I'm
going to look into this and try to design one around it.
Best,
Will
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 4/7/06 at 7:55 PM Paul Whatton wrote:
>Hi Will
>
>Put your nuts in the vice and squeeze them I say! That shows them who's
>boss! It's fast and it's dirty but it works. I've now fitted about 30 in
>the current RF deck project.
>
>We'll see further down the thread if you can fix this one. But don't get
>too screwed up trying, fitting those things can drive you nuts!
>
>More seriously.....
>
>The only reference I could find to the tool was short listing in their
>pdf catalogue (17Mb download). But no price or clues (pictures) to how
>it works. I guess there must be some fixed grip for the rivnut attached
>to the main body of the drill, or maybe screwed in behind the chuck? Or
>maybe the whole assembly replaces the chuck?
>
>On one auto enthusiast web page a guy describes how he used a piece of
>flat metal with a hole in it as a grip, put a screw in the rivnut and
>pulled it up with just an ordinary screwdriver. He was fitting a quite
>chunky steel rivnut. It beats me how he did that, he must have much
>better developed biceps than me because I tried that on the puny
>aluminium M4 ones I'm using and it sure didn't work for me!
>
>BTW it also crossed my mind that they might be a neat way of building
>VHF/UHF yagis? A rivnut each side of the boom, thread the end of the
>element halves and maybe apply a dab of Locktite to be really safe.
>
>Regards
>
>Paul
>
>Will Matney wrote:
>> Paul,
>>
>> That actually hit me early this morning after I had typed that and I
>started looking into it. What a person needs is first a thrust washer. A
>bronze washer might not do here, but a minature one using ball bearings
>would. Then you have to have something between it and the nut you can hold
>from spinning as the thrust washer would be between it and the chuck. I
>thought of using a piece of steel rod that was drilled through the center
>just a shade bigger than the screw. The tube would need to be about 3
>inches long so a person could hold it with their fingers from spinning.
>Then, the threaded rod would stick out of it maybe 1/2" to accomodate
>different length rivet-nuts. What you would do is place the nut on the
>thread, put it in the hole, hold on to the tube, apply inwards pressure
>with the drill to press against the nut, then zip it in with the
>drill/screwgun.
>>
>> The only problem with the above is one will need to do some lathe work
>to make the tube. Another thing comes up here also. What about the
>different thread diameters? Would you make one tube each to fit each
>threaded rod? A person could get more extravagant with the machining and
>make a rod to go in the drill, and on out the front of the tube which had
>a holder for one diameter in the end and a setscrew would hold it in from
>turning. Then each threaded rod would have to be machined out of a piece
>of solid round so that each size thread had the same shank to mount in the
>end for the setscrew to hold in. That takes a good bit of machining, and
>some folks can't do that. However, yo use the first design, not only would
>you have to change the tube, you would have to change the thrust washer
>each time because the threaded rod size changes.
>>
>> I'm going to set down today and look into this more and see what's
>needed. I'll let you know what I come up with. By the way, I looked at the
>one website, and never did find their drill driver listed.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Will
>>
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