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Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs

Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
From: Roger <sub1@rogerhalstead.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 01:29:16 -0500
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>

Dave Harmon wrote:
> If you have aluminum feeders to the pole like I do you can have the power
> company come out and re-torque the connections in your service box.
>   
You just need the power off for the work.  I use a long handled torque 
wrench with about a 3/8 or 1/2" allen wrench.  With Aluminum they should 
be tightened every few years. Don't forget to use some never seize on 
the nuts, as I've had them gaul (sp?) as they have to be TIGHT.

73

Roger (K8RI)
> While he has the power off, you can borrow his tool and tighten the other
> end of the feeders in your house box.
> Mine were pretty loose...like 2 turns loose.
> I understand they are supposed to be re-torqued periodically.
> Made a difference here.
>
> Regards
>
> Dave Harmon
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> Sperry, Ok.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com] On
> Behalf Of Gary Schafer
> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 2:55 PM
> To: 'Carl'; 'Roger'
> Cc: amps@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>
> I have the same problem at my farm. The line from the pole transformer is
> rather long and when the pump comes on lights dim slightly. But this has
> nothing to do with how good the grounds are or aren't. It is strictly the
> voltage drop in the feeder line.
>
> 73
> Gary  K4FMX
>
>   
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com] On
>> Behalf Of Carl
>> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 1:56 PM
>> To: Roger
>> Cc: amps@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>
>> I think the answer is pretty simple.
>>
>> The 240V comes to the panel and the ground at both ends is marginal at
>> best.
>> when running multiple 120V circuits off the panel the balance is not
>> perfect
>> and the resistance in the poor grounds causes a voltage drop, especially
>> when a heavy 240V load comes on such as the deep well pump, the electric
>> range, any ham amp, Jenn Air, etc.  The drop in the #12's is less than
>> #14,
>> especially in longer runs since this house is 80' long with a full
>> basement,
>> 2 upper levels and a walk in attic that houses a couple of the heavy draw
>> 120V vintage stations plus thermostat controlled 240V baseboard heaters
>> when
>> needed.
>>
>> In addition I believe the 240V conductors from the pole are undersized
>> since
>> they werent changed when I upgraded to a 200A panel from the old 100A
>> service. The utility company told me it didnt need an upgrade 20 years
>> ago.
>> Maybe I should talk to the new owners. Plus Im at the end of the pole pig
>> run.
>>
>> Carl
>> KM1H
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Roger" <sub1@rogerhalstead.com>
>> Cc: <amps@contesting.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 2:12 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>
>>
>>     
>>> Gary Patterson wrote:
>>>       
>>>> I am confused,   does return current actually go through "dirt" ground
>>>> and cause dimming of lights in a house.  I can't get my mind around
>>>> that???
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         
>>> Me either.  Here, the neutral comes in from the pole with the two 110
>>> VAC lines (220 volts between them) That neutral is grounded/earthed at
>>> both ends. In the house the neutral ties to the neutral and ground buss
>>> in the main breaker panel, which is then tied to to the 1, 2, or 3
>>> required ground rods. You could remove the ground lead to the ground
>>> rods entirely and the electrical system would never know the difference
>>> under normal circumstances.
>>>
>>> 73
>>>
>>> Roger (K8RI)
>>>       
>>>> Gary
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         
>>>>> From: km1h@jeremy.mv.com
>>>>> To: n7fcf@hctc.com; amps@contesting.com
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 10:09:57 -0500
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>>>>
>>>>> In NH the homeowner can do all his own wiring subject to inspection;
>>>>> this
>>>>> includes new construction. When I moved here in 1989 I added a huge
>>>>> addition
>>>>> to an 1830's farmhouse which I pretty much gutted and rebuilt with
>>>>> insulation, low E double pane windows, etc. The basement of the
>>>>>           
>> addition
>>     
>>>>> was
>>>>> over wired for multi bench ham use plus other benches for building
>>>>>           
>> amps,
>>     
>>>>> and
>>>>> repairs.
>>>>>
>>>>> The complete house was wired with #12 to the 120V wall outlets which
>>>>>           
>> are
>>     
>>>>> standard 15A variety. I did that to minimize dimming which is common
>>>>>           
>> on
>>     
>>>>> this
>>>>> hilltop due to poor grounds.....rock makes a poor conductor. The
>>>>>           
>> ground
>>     
>>>>> rods are a pair of spaced 8' driven at a shallow angle since solid
>>>>>           
>> ledge
>>     
>>>>> is
>>>>> less than 2' down. The best I could do is place them under the roof
>>>>>           
>> drip
>>     
>>>>> zone.
>>>>>
>>>>> My guide was the 1987 NEC manual which was current at the time.
>>>>>
>>>>> The inspector is a local excavator contractor who never had an
>>>>> electricians
>>>>> license. In fact he still holds the position. I think we just broke
>>>>>           
>> 13K
>>     
>>>>> in
>>>>> population.
>>>>>
>>>>> Later I bonded all the heating and domestic water copper pipes
>>>>>           
>> together
>>     
>>>>> with
>>>>> #6 and tied those into the panel ground. Distances were all within 6'
>>>>>           
>> of
>>     
>>>>> the
>>>>> panel.
>>>>>
>>>>> Then of course comes the ham equipment grounds, feedline grounds (all
>>>>> CATV
>>>>> or Andrew hardline), tower grounds ( I have 4 up to 250' away all
>>>>>           
>> guyed
>>     
>>>>> which means 3 more grounds per tower), vertical radial grounds (80 &
>>>>> 160M 4
>>>>> Squares), Beverage grounds ( there are 7 and the common hardline feed
>>>>>           
>> is
>>     
>>>>> 750' away) and whatever else which seems to throw the NEC manual out
>>>>>           
>> the
>>     
>>>>> window.
>>>>>
>>>>> You can see why many of us are confused and pretty much ignore all the
>>>>> NEC
>>>>> nonsense after the 1987 or earlier revisions.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>>>> KM1H
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Jim Carr" <n7fcf@hctc.com>
>>>>> To: "Alex Eban" <alexeban@gmail.com>; <jimsmitheguard-a@yahoo.com>;
>>>>> <amps@contesting.com>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 3:52 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>           
>>>>>> I spent my working life wireing and the later half as a state
>>>>>> electrical
>>>>>> inspector. I am a certified master electrician and national;y
>>>>>>             
>> certified
>>     
>>>>>> electrical inspector retired since 2000.
>>>>>> reading some of these post's, although there isn't a thing wrong with
>>>>>> doing
>>>>>> your own wiring, I would heartily recomend you have your work
>>>>>>             
>> inspected
>>     
>>>>>> by
>>>>>> the local electrical inspector. When it comes to bonding and
>>>>>>             
>> grounding,
>>     
>>>>>> what
>>>>>> you don't know can kill you.
>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>> N7FCF
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Alex Eban" <alexeban@gmail.com>
>>>>>> To: <jimsmitheguard-a@yahoo.com>; <amps@contesting.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 11:15 PM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This is true!
>>>>>> The point to watch, in my opinion, is to take the branch out from the
>>>>>> main
>>>>>> panel BEFORE the GFI, if used. A local GFI can then be added at the
>>>>>> remote
>>>>>> location and the local ground strapped there to the neutral coming
>>>>>>             
>> from
>>     
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> main inlet. An added advantage of this is that if the local GFI trips
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> don't have to run to the house to lift it.
>>>>>> Alex 4Z5KS
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-
>>>>>>             
>> bounces@contesting.com]
>>     
>>>>>> On
>>>>>> Behalf Of jimsmitheguard-a@yahoo.com
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 5:10 AM
>>>>>> To: amps@contesting.com
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mark,
>>>>>> The neutral and ground must be bonded together at the main panel as
>>>>>> stated
>>>>>> on the reflector many times. The ground, and neutral bus are often
>>>>>>             
>> one
>>     
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> the same in a residential panel.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The detached barn requires it's own service. This service must have
>>>>>> it's
>>>>>> own
>>>>>> grounding electrodes to limit the impedance to ground at this
>>>>>>             
>> location,
>>     
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> the neutral must be bonded to ground here.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the barn service panel is fed from the house service panel, You
>>>>>>             
>> must
>>     
>>>>>> also
>>>>>> bond the services together.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jim Smith, EEKQ6UV
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --- On Tue, 11/3/09, Mark Robinson <markrob@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> From: Mark Robinson <markrob@mindspring.com>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
>>>>>> To: "Ian Hill - K8MM" <ihk8mm@charter.net>
>>>>>> Cc: amps@contesting.com
>>>>>> Date: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 8:32 AM
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My Neutral and Ground is connected at the main panel but also at the
>>>>>> barn
>>>>>> 300 feet away. I am running a 3 wire 100 amp 240v power 4 00 aluminum
>>>>>> line
>>>>>> to the barn from a 100 amp 240v breaker located in my main
>>>>>>             
>> distribution
>>     
>>>>>> box.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I didn't like the idea of a gnd neutral tie that far away from the
>>>>>> barn,
>>>>>> so
>>>>>> I tied them together at the barn with a second ground rod located at
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> barn. Is that such a bad idea?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mark
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>>>>>>
>>>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>             
>> -----------
>>     
>>>>>>
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>>>>>> 11/04/09
>>>>>> 11:51:00
>>>>>>
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>>>>>>             
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