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Re: [Amps] Automotive Relays

To: <SECOPSYS@aol.com>, <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] Automotive Relays
From: "Carl" <km1h@jeremy.mv.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 21:09:42 -0400
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>

> In a message dated 8/8/2010 7:13:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> w7ry@inbox.com writes:
>
> It was most likely a TH-6 or TH-7. Or a 2 element Cushcaft 40 meter beam
> since they are the only antennas that I have used over the past 18 years.
>
> 73
> Jim W7RY
>
> If I had to guess my money would be on the Cushcraft 2 ele shorty forty.
> They used rustable sheet metal screws under the shrink tubing on the 
> loading
> coils to connect the aluminum element to the loading coil wire.  It is
> obvious where the screw is located by the slight bulge in the shrink 
> tubing.  It
> can be repaired without removing the shrink tubing by cutting a small 
> circle
> around the bad screw, replacing the sheet metal screw with stainless, then
> sealing it up.
>
> Richard


Most CC owners I know used stainless when assembling those antennas and the 
factory followed suit decades ago.

Id say Hi-Gain was a prime example of intermittents waiting to happen. In 
the traps, the single point element compression screw or the sheet metal 
screw attaching the Beta Match to the boom. And good luck to anyone using 
the provided BN-86 balun at over about 800-1000W. Id hate to try and count 
the number of TH-6's and others Ive helped take down for rebuilding or 
simply selling off. Ive got parts of 3 of them out in the woods, used the 
booms and some element material for HB monobanders.

Carl
KM1H 

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