Why not just put the soldering iron in contact with the pin's back shell.
Even if you smear a little solder on it, it doesn't come into play so far as
the contact goes.
Alex 4Z5KS
-----Original Message-----
From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com] On
Behalf Of Glen Zook
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 10:43 PM
To: Dick Green WC1M; donroden@hiwaay.net; amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] soldering vs crimping
I have found an easier way of soldering those pins. What I do is to place
the pin in a hole drilled in a piece of wood that just holds the pin
upright. Next, I tin the center conductor of the coax. The next step is to
heat the pin with the soldering iron and flow just a little solder in the
open end of the pin. Then insert the tinned center conductor into the pin
while applying heat to the pin from the soldering iron. If the center
conductor is cut to the proper length then the insulation will just come in
contact the the end of the pin.
In those cases where the solder flows out of the hole I just use a small
file to remove it. If the tinned center conductor is too large to fit in
the hole in the pin, just use a small file to reduce it.
After trying all sorts of ways to solder the pin I have standardized on the
above method and it works very well every time with a minimum of effort.
Glen, K9STH
Website: http://k9sth.com
________________________________
From: Dick Green WC1M <wc1m73@gmail.com>
Right, and I'm not sure there's a better alternative to using the hole. The
only other way to solder the center pin is to leave a small space between
the opening of the pin and the dielectric, heat the pin, then apply solder
along the ridge of the pin opening so that the solder is drawn into the pin
(not unlike sweating pipe joint.) But I checked the drawing from one
manufacturer, RF Connectors, and they specify that the pin must be butted up
against the dielectric. If you do that, there's no way to get solder into
the pin other than through the hole.
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