Amps
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Amps] SB-220 help

To: "Jim W7RY" <w7ry@centurytel.net>, "mike stokes" <mike9v@gmail.com>, "Amps" <amps@contesting.com>, "R Johnson" <rjohnson@tmlp.net>
Subject: Re: [Amps] SB-220 help
From: "Carl" <km1h@jeremy.mv.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 11:13:42 -0400
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
The full list of SB-220/221 bulletins is on the Web and at
https://puck.nether.net/pipermail/heath/1998-January/028165.html
Bulletin 27 is the pertinent one. It took one hit to find after typing "SB-220 service bulletins".

A different search term came up with this.
http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/heath/Service_Bulletins/sb220.txt


Those other links do not address the question and are not changes I would suggest.

The factory way puts a full 120-130VDC into the cathode at all times in standby.

The "alternates" do not protect for a sudden gas arc that may have been prevented if the full 120V was applied, instead of only 25V, ALL THE TIME since many shorts/arcs occur suddenly when in standby. While the resistor bias method has been common for many decades long before Measures, the resistor is sized for a higher cutoff, usually a 33-47K. OTOH with the prevailing problems with 3-500 gas from all manufacturers it does not go far enough. The AL-82 and 80B (as well as out of production amps from Ameritron and others) are notorious for letting loose in standby with a lot of resultant damage a good part of the time. Hard grounded grids just expedite the damage wheras the choke usually opens; or use a 24 Ohm 1/2W resistor.

Adding a fuse to T2 is a good idea as well as replacing RFC-2 with a glitch resistor and the slow circuit breakers with fast acting fuses. Grid fuses are another possibility.

C4 is a weak link in those amps as very few bother to monitor the standby bias on a regular basis and as the cap ages and leakage develops the voltage goes down and hum ripple goes up.

To minimize gas arcs run the tubes with color on a regular basis, a dark orange for Eimac and other sheet metal anodes and a bright red on the lower 2 rows on graphites. An easy way to do this is to operate as an AM linear with 20W of carrier and about 250W out which is the safe limit for the rather wimpy SB-220 transformer. An hour or so of enjoyable ragchewing once a month is sufficient; DO NOT do long winded old buzzard transmissions. The original Eimacs are still in the LK-500ZC I have had since new in 86 and with the optional external HD Dahl xfmr PAC-5 I can run 350-400W carrier as long as I want with the very quiet EBM Papst 4600N fan. Many modern SS rigs sound decent on AM once set up properly and the SDR's sound great.

Carl
KM1H


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim W7RY" <w7ry@centurytel.net> To: "mike stokes" <mike9v@gmail.com>; "Amps" <amps@contesting.com>; "R Johnson" <rjohnson@tmlp.net>
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Amps] SB-220 help


Here:

http://wy6k.com/homebrew_stuff/essential_mod_sb220.htm


And here:
http://www.somis.org/sb220ci_diag.gif

73
Jim W7RY


-----Original Message----- From: R Johnson
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 11:33 PM
To: Carl ; mike stokes ; Amps
Subject: Re: [Amps] SB-220 help

Hi Carl:
I remember the problem, but I can't find the "Heath App Notes" I had saved on one my old machines.

Maybe you could give a little more info for the "NEWBIES" on the list.
I have 10 old HD's I would go thru to find my old "Heath App Notes" directory !!!

Maybe you can do a better retrieval job than me :-) !!!!

73 Bob, K1VU
FDN42ma

At 08:22 PM 4/23/2013, Carl wrote:
Early 220's had a problem with shorting the filament/bias transformer if it was wired for 115V and the zener shorted. There is a change notice on the web.

Carl
KM1H


----- Original Message ----- From: "mike stokes" <mike9v@gmail.com>
To: "Amps" <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 6:28 PM
Subject: [Amps] SB-220 help


I just picked up a used non working SB-220.  Suppoesdly the filament
transformer smoked.  Still have to pull it apart and see what is going
on inside.  Tubes are supposedly still good.

The question I have is it possible/likely that a tube failure caused
the filament transformer to smoke ?  What is the best way to check the
tubes to insure they don't cause more problems ?

Thanks in advance.

--
Mike Stokes
KK9V
_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3162/5768 - Release Date: 04/23/13

_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps


_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3204/5992 - Release Date: 07/15/13


_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>