Have it your way.
OTOH, since you obviously have a reading comprehension issue you missed my
statement that I added a label on the top cover stating the shorting strap
was deactivated. Plus I discussed it first with the customer.
For obvious reasons the shorting bar is a thing of the past in ham
amplifiers and a chicken stick doesnt come as an accessory. This is not the
broadcast industry so stick to the subject.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <lists@subich.com>
To: "Carl" <km1h@jeremy.mv.com>; <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Looking for picture of SB220 interlock switch
No, recommending the removal of protective devices and removing them in
amplifiers you service is ridiculous. I know that any technician in a
broadcast environment who removed crowbars or other safety circuits
would likely find themselves without a job.
I hope for your sake that none of your customers - or someone they sell
the modified amplifier to - is ever injured by high voltage.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 11/7/2013 5:39 PM, Carl wrote:
Now you are becoming ridiculous.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <lists@subich.com>
To: "Carl" <km1h@jeremy.mv.com>; <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Looking for picture of SB220 interlock switch
On 11/7/2013 10:47 AM, Carl wrote:
> Adding a roll cage into your Prius might also save your life.
Yes, and putting a body around motorcycles would save thousands
of injuries/deaths a year. I'm not about to strip the body off
my automobile and drive it on the interstate. Saving a few
minutes in changing spark lugs isn't worth the danger every day.
Since you remove the crowbar from amplifiers you service, do you
also remove the cover plates from your outlets/switch boxes and
disconnect the green wire? After all, those are only necessary
if those using the house don't have enough personal responsibility
to keep their fingers out of the boxes or maintain their electric
powered equipment.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 11/7/2013 10:47 AM, Carl wrote:
Adding a roll cage into your Prius might also save your life.
However many of us come from the concept of personal responsibility, a
bit of training, and the ability to read a warning label.
Those that dont/cant are removed from the gene pool which may be a good
thing.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Subich, W4TV"
<lists@subich.com>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2013 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Looking for picture of SB220 interlock switch
> That "safety" device can easily destroy your PS and I always
> disable/remove them and add a warning label.
While it may destroy your power supply it can save your life. The
best solution is to *add* the primary interlock switches and leave
the crowbar in place. Disconnecting the primary before or at the
same time as shorting the HV will protect the power supply -
particularly if a properly sized glitch resistor has been installed
in the HV lead between the HV terminal and the crowbar/cold end of
the plate choke.
Every one of the "big transmitters" I ever worked on had *both*
primary interlocks *and* mechanical crowbars in addition to the
"deadman stick" to be used before reaching into any place where
high voltage could exist. Some of those power supplies were capable
of as much as 20 KV at 10A - they were nothing to take lightly.
I would never disable a safety circuit - that is quick route to an
early appearance in "Silent Keys."
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 11/6/2013 11:00 AM, Carl wrote:
That "safety" device can easily destroy your PS and I always
disable/remove them and add a warning label.
If you are that worried about safety then add a cover switch to
disable
the AC line as many other amps do. Very simple and inexpensive.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message ----- From: "Geert Jan de Groot"
<pe1hzg@xs4all.nl>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2013 4:07 AM
Subject: [Amps] Looking for picture of SB220 interlock switch
I'm preparing to start on an SB220 renovation project:
replace capacitors, update diode board, etc
The previous owner has disbled the safely interlock by
bending the brass strip away and removing the
"tapped phenolic spacer". I'd like to restore them.
I'm not sure what, and why, the machanical and electrical
parameters are of the spacer as I'll need to find something else.
I'd expected it to be a metal thing but according to the manual
it isn't.
Does someone have a detailed picture of the interlock in place?
Why is it an isolator? What are the mechanical stresses on the
spacer?
73,
Geert Jan
PS: I know the interlock doesn't make it safe, but 'safer'
and that's still a good thing IMHO
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