Thanks for the idea Dan...
I moved the toroid away from the loading cap. Made a huge difference. It’s now
hooked to the back of the loading cap and the bandswitch. Now it runs pretty
cool. No more smoking or turning the fiberglass tape brown. The core temp gets
to about 125-140 degrees when transmitting on 10 meters.
10 is the only band where the 160 meter toroid heats up. I may try to wind 2
toroids instead of just using one? The toroid is 3ea T200-2 cores wound with
fiberglass tape.
After I moved it, I put a 100 pF silver mica across the toroid. It immediately
went up in flames! Then I tried a 1800 pF cap. It got pretty hot but it didn’t
really help anything. Amazing how much RF is across that toroid even though
it’s shorted out electrically. 10 meters must really create quite a bit of
stray current around the chassis and on the output side of the tank. Not sure
if it’s the Pi/L circuitry or the fact that it’s 10 meters.
Not sure if a wire coil would be any better, but it’s worth a try. I have one
that would work perfectly for both 80 and 160 (42 uH ceramic coil-form) but
it’s only wound with #14 wire. I think that may be a bit lite for 80 meters
contesting RTTY. But it may be worth a try. Perhaps tomorrow.
From: Dan Hearn
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 5:47 PM
To: Jim W7RY
Cc: AMPS
Subject: Re: [Amps] More on Toroidal Tank Circuit Issues
Jim, I would try a small air wound coil similar to what you would use in a
parasitic suppressor in series with the toroid, maybe in the lead to the switch.
Dan, N5AR
On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 4:46 PM, Jim W7RY <w7ry@centurytel.net> wrote:
Both leads are shored by the band switch when on 10 meters guys. Interesting
that 3 of you came up with the same possibility...
Not sure where to put the capacitor if both leads are shorted together.
Perhaps I could center tap the toroid (bare the Teflon wire) and solder a cap
from the center tap to one of the output leads.
I removed the toroid and the major heat in the 3 turns of wire is where the
winding is within 1/4 inch of the vacuum loading cap. Which is probably to
close.
See:
http://s900.photobucket.com/user/w7ry/media/8877%20Amplifier/P1010217.jpg.html?sort=3&o=16
Jim, I think your 160 toroid when shorted is self resonant with its
distributed capacitance on 10m. You might be able to solve this by putting a
small cap across the 160 m toroid to move its self resonance.
73, Dan, N5AR
On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Jim W7RY <w7ry@centurytel.net> wrote:
I may have to eat some crow here about using dedicated toroids on 160 and
80 meters...
I built an 8877 amplifier based on the K8RA (SK) 3CX1500D7 amplifier.
http://www.k8ra.com/index_049.htm
Mine is shown here:
http://s900.photobucket.com/user/w7ry/media/8877%20Amplifier/DSC_0037.jpg.html?sort=3&o=47
And here:
http://s900.photobucket.com/user/w7ry/media/8877%20Amplifier/P1010225.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13
The lower toroid is 160 only and the upper one is 80 meters only (with
10,15,20 and 40 coils added in of course).
I’m using a shorting band switch 6 position.
On 10 meters, the 160 meter toroid (lower one) gets so hot, the fiberglass
tape has turned brown, and the Teflon wire is melting the Plexiglas that the
toroid's are mounted on.
I know all about trying to use a tapped toroid for multiple bands is wrong
(except on the L coil of the Pi-L circuit, and see my postings about the
Commander HF-2500 and K1TTT’s pictures of same) but WHY is the 160 meter toroid
getting so hot when using 10 meters? It's mounted very close to the loading
vacuum capacitor is the only thing that I can think of. But the weird part, is
that this just started. During all of the testing, there was no problem, but
now, its really getting HOT!
When testing, I had the top cover off of the amplifier, now that I’m using
it, the top cover is on. I’m going to try the test again with the top off and
see what happens.
On 80 and 160 meters, the toroids are normal temperature (around 100
degrees) and everything works just fine since I’m not shorting turns on the
toroids.
Ideas?
Thanks and 73
Jim W7RY
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Dan Hearn
N5AR
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Dan Hearn
N5AR
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