Wow, nice stuff!
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1484
I'm at a bit of a distance in SE-GA.
Thanks,
David, KD4E
How long of a run?
Bite the bullet... Andrew / Comscope LDF4-50. Lasts forever! If you
live near Springfield MO, I have a BUNCH of it, and LDF7-AVA7.
Thanks
73
Jim W7RY
On 4/8/2021 9:27 PM, qrv@kd4e.com wrote:
Why not the Belden 9913F7, for VHF, please?
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=342_345_515_544&products_id=1752
It looks to be about the same loss, more flexible, and about the same
price as the LMR400.
The RG-213 has a VOC of 66% vs 84%, the 213 is higher loss (even on
6m), 89% shield, and a smaller center conductor.
is there a fair argument to have all cables rated for VHF performance
- in case you have to switch cables in a hurry?
Just asking ... I've always just used what I had on-hand, or could
afford cheap, but am now trying to upgrade it all.
Thanks,
David KD4E
I agree with you Jim on LMR400. I don't like how when I cut off a
piece that has been outside, there is white dry corrosion inside of
the jacket.
I got a bunch of 100' pieces from a project that were un-used so I
tried it. Always used type N and UHF connectors for the braid though.
Thanks
73
Jim W7RY
On 4/8/2021 4:18 PM, Jim Garland wrote:
I agree completely with Frank about the virtues of the
DXE-PL259CS8U “Next Generation” UHF PL259 connectors. (Actually, I
pretty much always agree with Frank, whatever the topic.) One thing
I especially like about these connectors, aside from their ease of
installation, strength, and adaptability to all RG8 style coax
cables, is how easily they thread onto a female mating connector
without cross threading. They are about as foolproof as one can
imagine, and I find myself cutting the ends off good jumper cables
and replacing their old style PL259s with these new ones just to
avoid future problems. I think the ability to solder the center pin
and only crimp the braid is a real plus.
On a related topic, I’ve stopped using LMR400 and LMR400UF coax
completely for HF work, using instead trusty, old-time RG-213, with
its untinned copper braid. I find the aluminum foil in LMR cables
unneeded and time-consuming to work with, and the source of
failures when mechanically flexed. Soldering to the foil is near
impossible, especially when I find myself belted into a tower!
73,
Jim W8ZR
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: donovanf@erols.com
Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 1:58 PM
To: 160
Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11
The DX Engineering DXE-PL259CS8U-12 crimp coax connector
with solder center center pin should work perfectly on RG-11.
I fold back the RG-11 center conductor about 1/4 inch to provide
more surface area for soldering
73
Frank
W3LPL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Kunath via Topband" <topband@contesting.com>
To: "Raymond Benny" <rayn6vr@gmail.com>, "160"
<topband@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 7:39:36 PM
Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11
DX Engineering has some that would work I think. It's a crimp on the
shield and a soldered center pin.
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-pl259cs8u-12
Not sure if that would work for your application? I suspect that the
larger sized center pin needed for 50 ohms would make a crimp to the
center pin problematic on 75 ohm cable in a 50- ohm connector.
I've never used these connectors before but I might now that I see
them.
Any cables I make up with PL-259 connectors i have been soldering both
the shield and the center pin. On the shield end I strip the jacket
and
flux and tin the braid. Then I measure for center pin length, and
use a
tubing cutter to cut the tinned shield to the right dimension,
clean the
cut edge to remove any bits of metal and screw on the PL-259. After
that
I remove the tip of a Weller 125 watt soldering gun and after fluxing
the 4 solder holes in the PL-259 I bridge the connector across the
soldering gun ends where the tip usually goes. The connector
becomes the
tip, heats up quickly and a quick application of solder and its
soldered
all around. I let it cool before moving it and then quickly solder the
center pin and trim it.
I've had good luck doing that over the years (so far).
For N connectors it's always a shield crimp but I solder the center
pin on.
Rick Kunath, K9AO
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