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[RFI] Regarding Garage Door Openner RFI

To: <rfi@contesting.com>
Subject: [RFI] Regarding Garage Door Openner RFI
From: michael w. elliott" <kq0b@sprintmail.com (michael w. elliott)
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 15:41:09 -0600
Thanks to all who reponded to me and I really appreciate the input and

I hope I have given credit to all who sent me responses and did not miss
anyone.  I considered each response.

I wanted all to see in one place what was sent so they can use the
information or refer it someone else who has the problem.
Below is a summary of what I received:

Dan KI6X
I have gone throught this.  I disconnected the remote open switch at the
openner.  The problem went away so toroids at the openner end of this
cable worked fine.  With the new openers, the cord to the safety
switch/light may also bring in the RF.  Anything connecterd can bring
it  in.  I also use toroids on the A/C line because it is a GFCI and was
popping off with RF

KL7J - Les
Cured it with an RF choke between the wall button wire and the +
terminal with the choke close to the opener.   I used  a 10 mH RF choke,
JW Miller part #4672 or 6306 from J.W. Miller, Bell Industries works for
me.  Their phone number is
310-515-1720. Lots of radio part supply houses usually carry J.W. Miller

Pete Smith <n4zr
Make sure the ferrite cores used  are HF material.  Type 73 is good.
Put them on the remote button lead as well as the power into the opener.
These often make dandy antennas.
Put them as close to the opener unit as possible.
Wind at least 5 turns per core - inductance increases as the square of
the number of turns, and you may need quite a bit at 40m.

I took apart one of my controllers and found that the little flat spring
that the button pushes on had lost its spring and would make contact
when it got into the mood.

I had a similar problem a few years ago.  A single dit a 40 wpm would
start the neighbors garage door open or closing.  I contact the garage
door manufacture technical department and explained the problem to
them.  They were most interested.  The first deal they tried was to
offer my neighbor that if they would buy another controller card they
would refund their money when they got the old one back after it had
been installed by their service rep.  That never happened to I called
them back again and explained there was great reluctance to part with
the money even with the promise of return.  They finally sent  the
board to me and let me install it.  The new board fixed the problem.
I had determined that a capacitor across the remote switch in the garage
would fix the problem, but the original repairman had told them that I
even touched the unit the warrantee was void, so I put the cap at the
other end of the line.  When I put the new board in and after I verified
it fixed the problem, I put a bypass cap at the unit.

John - N8RF
 What is happening is the wires that go from the "dooebell switch" to
the main unit are acting as an antenna. Place a .01 mf cap cap across
the leads at the terminal strip on the main unit. I used  a 100 volt .01
that was in a junk box. Solved the problem here and at my neighbors. 

I thank each and every one of you for your input.

I have learned a lot from the information being passed on this
Glad I never dropped it from my subscription.


Mike Elliott

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