On Mon, 22 Nov 2010, pfizenmayer wrote:
> Have a new flattop electric stove that at a KW on 15 meters - the alarm
> beeper keeps going off. OK at 100 watts . Fine on all other bands - same
> KT34 on 10 and 20 is OK at KW and INV vee even closer on 80 and 40 OK.
>
> I want to try first just winding some of the pigtail leads on some F240 #31
> cores . Question should I do it on all three wires or just the two "hots"
> 220 ?
>
> I realize it may be some sort of direct radiation into the stove electronics
> but I want to start this way .
>
> 73 Hank K7HP
If we are talking about a conventional electric range, it is 2 phase ~
220VAC, wiring will be
Hot, Hot, Neutral (no ground, legacy allow from copper shortage days)
or
Hot, Hot, Neutral, Ground (current spec for new outlets)
One of those screwy things for ranges and electric dryers. Older
contstruction will have 3 prong, newer construction will have 4 prong.
Appliance installers change the plug to match the house. Anytime a range
or dryer power outlet is re-run or changed it should be updated to 4.
Anyway, you are looking at a _minimum_ of 3 10 gage wires. Don't even
thing of wrapping this with #12 or #14.
Also, alot of 2 phase appliances tap 1 leg only to power the controls at
120VAC, while running the elements phase to phase. The point being, if
you don't wrap both hots and the neutral you get impalanced current flow
through the core, and partially saturate the core.
On the CYA and safety front, this is a 2 phase high load circuit... If
you have to ask about it, I have to reccomend you don't try to wire in
something. I go to the plant electricians at work when I am not
absolutely sure about something, safe is better than sorry when it comes
to home and family.
Side note, companies like Corcom do produce 2 phase 30amp EMI filters that
can be installed inline with the power cord where it enters the
appliaiance
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