I found the reply I received from Kidde. Thank goodness for archiving.
Maybe someone can have better response than I did.
*In response to your email, here are a few things we can try to fix this
problem.
Test 1
Have a QSO on the offending frequency and watch the unit for signs of
interference.
This would be an indication of CO as shown on the LED display.
The indicated CO would likely increase over the period of your QSO till an
alarm condition occurs.
It is possible that the CO indication may go very high even 999 which would
result in an almost instantaneous CO alarm.
I’m trying to get a feel as to how long it takes the alarm to go into alarm
after the QSO starts.
Test 2
Remove the unit from AC power this will allow the unit to operate on its
internal 9V backup battery.
Perform Test 1 again and note the results.
It is possible that you will have greatly reduced level of interference .
Note;
Your unit has a ‘peak level’ memory make sure that you ‘clear’ the peak
level memory before your QSO.
The peak level memory will store low level ‘<= 30ppm’ readings.
Readings of 30ppm or less are only shown on the display when the peak
button is pressed and held.
Test3
If test 2 results in greatly reduced interference try plugging the unit
into a different outlet, preferably on a different breaker, and perform
Test 1 again.
Note the results.
The purpose of all of these tests is to try and determine if the
interference is being conducted through the AC mains house wiring.
If it is we can try these type of ‘snap on ferrites’
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/638/952.pdf
You would install one or two of these on the wire from the plug-in
transformer directly where it enters the alarm unit.
Also this should be a familiar site as well as a good reference.
http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/rfigen.html
There are also other tests and solutions we can try if we do not solve this
issue.
Feel free to email or call.
Please contact me at 1-919-563-5911 ext 8415 if there is anything else I
can do for you. Thank you for using Kidde and allowing us to protect your
home.
Click here for 24 hour online support
Very Truly Yours,
Vaughn Greene
Consumer Product Support
Kidde Safety-UTC Fire & Safety
1016 Corporate Park Drive
Mebane, NC 27302
1-800-880-6788 Ext 8415
Fax: 800-547-2111
Need help at odd hours? Log onto
http://portalgb.knowledgebase.net/?cid=12758&c=15121&cpc=i830o4bbvC82cRVePyldWo3I
The information contained in this message or any of its attachments may be
privileged and confidential and intended for the exclusive use of the
addressee. Any views or opinions expressed in this e-mail are those of the
individual and not necessarily of Kidde Safety/UTC Fire & Safety. If you
are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, reproduction, distribution
or other dissemination or use of this communications is strictly prohibited.
*
Regards,
Anthony (N2KI)
On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 10:09 PM, Roger (K8RI) <k8ri@rogerhalstead.com>wrote:
> On 10/26/2013 6:05 PM, Christopher Brown wrote:
>
>>
>> Monox (CO) detectors are important if you have any potential CO sources.
>>
>> Any combustion fired devices, vehicles, etc. are a potential source.
>>
>>
> We have them in every room and the basement. "First Alert CO400"
> Expected life, 5 years, uses an electrochemical cell/detector
> price $17 give or take.
> Battery powered 2 AA, No AC connection.
> Check weekly, battery life, 1 year plus.
> No RFI yet and not bothered by QRO on 160, or 75. Distance to the 160 and
> 75 antennas 40 feet, give or take a tad. 40 is wayyy out. 150 feet or
> more.
>
>>
>>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>
>
> If you get really, really lucky you might notice a weak source, if you
>> are awake and the levels are rising slowly by the fact you are getting
>> sleepy and getting a headach...If you are already asleep, or the levels
>> rise rapidly...GoodBye.
>>
>>
>> Other fun bits...
>>
>> As I understand it, the sensors to not have a unlimited lifespan, good
>> idea to replace every X years (check with maker docs on lifespan).
>>
>
>
>
>> Location is important, CO pools in low places, these things need to be
>> located _low_. Normal outlet height is a good place, why most CO
>> detectors are made to plug straight in to an outlet.
>>
>>
>> Now...Outlets are not always near the floor, often in furnace
>> rooms/utility rooms garages, etc they are much higher.
>>
>>
>> Take a close look at the back of the CO detector... While some of the
>> smaller ones are one piece, many of the ones about the size of a
>> paperback or larger have a removable wall-wart.
>>
>>
>> I just replaced a pair of Kiddie Nighthawks (10 years old) with newer
>> Kiddie units. In both the Nighthawks and the new units, power is from a
>> wall-ward that is snapped into a section of the case.
>>
>> If you have low outlets you can just plug in...
>>
>>
>> If you have higher outlets you are supposed to unsocket the wart, and
>> remote mount the CO detector (mounting provisions on back).
>>
>> This is a std wart with a 6ft ish cable, and is perfect for wrapping
>> around a toroid.
>>
>>
>> I always place CO detectors in potential sources and connected living
>> areas.
>>
>> My garage has one, both because it is a garage and because NatGas heater
>> and water heater is there. Outlets are at the 5ft level... Detector is
>> at 18" level on the wall with the wart up at the outlet. There was
>> enough to place a 2.4" type 31 toroid at the wart (with its own support
>> so the weight is not pulling on the wart).
>>
>> There is another in the living area, downstairs hallway where the living
>> room, kitched, laundry and garage entrance meet. Outlets are low there,
>> but did the same thing with the remotable wart to put a toroid on it.
>> CO detector is about 18" to the right of the outlet.
>>
>> Key point is to make sure the AC connection is well protected from
>> getting tugged/etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Far as RF trigger... Both the old NighthHawks and the new ones are
>> triggered by conducted RF. Attic antenna w/ 100watts... 160 - 10 will
>> trigger. Remote antenna, still triggers 160 - 40 if running more than
>> 400watts.
>>
>> The toroids take care of that.
>>
>>
>> Looking at the datasheet for KN-COP-DP-LS, it is the smaller direct to
>> outlet type without the removable wart, for use only where you have low
>> outlets.
>>
>>
>> You might look at
>>
>> KN-COEG-3
>> KN-COPP-3
>>
>> These are both larger units with a remotable wart.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 10/23/13 1:10 PM, dalej wrote:
>>
>>> Just a heads up.
>>>
>>> I purchased a Kidde NightHawk CO2 detector model KN-COP-DP-LS, it is
>>> designed to plug into a wall outlet plus it has a 9 v. battery backup
>>> and LED readout. While transmitting on 80 meters after a while it
>>> starts audible warning, very loud. I called the company tech support
>>> line and they did not have any solution. As an experiment I plugged
>>> the detector into a two wire extension cord and wrapped the extension
>>> around a #31 mix snap-on, then tested and it did not go off. The
>>> tech support said not to use an extension cable with the detector.
>>>
>>> So if you are looking for a CO2 detector be aware of this problem
>>> with 80 meter RFI tripping the detector. I went to strictly battery
>>> powered CO2 detector and that works fine.
>>>
>>> Dale, k9vuj ______________________________**_________________ RFI
>>> mailing list RFI@contesting.com
>>> http://lists.contesting.com/**mailman/listinfo/rfi<http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi>
>>>
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>> RFI mailing list
>> RFI@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/**mailman/listinfo/rfi<http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi>
>>
>>
>>
>
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